KZ750 Twin Won't Start, STILL wont start!! Updated

The nice man from ebay say;

The key you are refering to fits into one of the slots
on the end cover before assembling gears in the housing.
This is shown in a breakdown in the service manual.

Now i just need to download that manual until i get a hard copy.

Go here and scroll down to OMR, www.kzrider.com/forum/advsearch?q=KZ750+...name=1&childforums=1
You will find the download. www173.megaupload.com/files/70a215c8c4d2...bae2d56740/KZ750.pdf

Biquetoast has a manual available for download on his site, kz750twins.com/

I got it all put back together, large planetary gear not moving, that tab is an awkward wee fella!!

Got the starter back in, casings on, oil in (all for about the 50th time!!). I jumped the solenoid & hey presto............v little! The starter doesn't seem to have enough power to turn the engine over! Removed the plugs & it turned it fine but not with them in.

The only thing i can think of is that when i was working on the starter the post moved & broke the connection. I repaired it ok with solder but if my job wasn't good enough would this cause the starter to lose power?

I bought the bike when the starter was on its way out but it still started the bike.

I honestly feel like banging my head off a wall now!

Try and see if it is a cable or battery issue.
Jump from a car battery, with the car turned OFF. One cable to the bikes engine case negative. Then the other go to the starter post positive. Use jumper cables. if it turns it over then, see which side is low current flow. Move the neg to the battery of the bike. Try it. Then do the Positive and try it. If it spins over fine through those tests suspect that the battery you have is bad. Check the battery voltage after charging, then while cranking. It should be close or just above 13v after a fresh charge, may take overnight. Then when cranking it should hold above 11v.

When soldering any connection, cleanliness is very important.If possible do not touch any item with your hands as the skin oils will make the connection contaminated. If possible after being touched, clean the area with rubbing alcohol,let dry, and then use a rosin flux(not acid!) for best solderig results.

Acid flux is designed for soldering copper and brass plumbing parts and will corrode electrical connections.

The same cleanliness should apply when changing the quartz bulbs in headlights as again, skin oils will cause the bulb to prematurely fail if touched,and not wiped down with rubbing alcohol.

Something about the sodium in the skin oils causing hot spots in the glass envelope of the light bulb...

Motor Head wrote: Try and see if it is a cable or battery issue.
Jump from a car battery, with the car turned OFF. One cable to the bikes engine case negative. Then the other go to the starter post positive. Use jumper cables. if it turns it over then, see which side is low current flow. Move the neg to the battery of the bike. Try it. Then do the Positive and try it. If it spins over fine through those tests suspect that the battery you have is bad. Check the battery voltage after charging, then while cranking. It should be close or just above 13v after a fresh charge, may take overnight. Then when cranking it should hold above 11v.

My battery is totally shot, the 12v was applied to it & the starter solenoid was 'jumped' as the starter button is not working. The 12v was eventually applied directly to the starter motor. Not even that would turn the engine over.

MFolks wrote: When soldering any connection, cleanliness is very important.If possible do not touch any item with your hands as the skin oils will make the connection contaminated. If possible after being touched, clean the area with rubbing alcohol,let dry, and then use a rosin flux(not acid!) for best solderig results.

Acid flux is designed for soldering copper and brass plumbing parts and will corrode electrical connections.

I believed the solder to be a decent enough job, definately not professional but decent. The post on the starter is made out of copper.

Did i read somewhere that some sort of Honda Starter motor will fit? I think i've got to the stage of couldnt be bothered anymore. Its all the draining of oil, removing side cases, removing instant gasket, then putting it all together again to find its still not working! The novelty soon wears off.

Try these two websites for starters & starter brushes:

www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm
www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

Thank you, 1st link is returning a file not found. I have a starter rebuild kit coming that i ordered a couple of weeks ago but i think the reolacable components in my starter are fine.