TOPIC:

Try and see if it is a cable or battery issue.
Jump from a car battery, with the car turned OFF. One cable to the bikes engine case negative. Then the other go to the starter post positive. Use jumper cables. if it turns it over then, see which side is low current flow. Move the neg to the battery of the bike. Try it. Then do the Positive and try it. If it spins over fine through those tests suspect that the battery you have is bad. Check the battery voltage after charging, then while cranking. It should be close or just above 13v after a fresh charge, may take overnight. Then when cranking it should hold above 11v.

When soldering any connection, cleanliness is very important.If possible do not touch any item with your hands as the skin oils will make the connection contaminated. If possible after being touched, clean the area with rubbing alcohol,let dry, and then use a rosin flux(not acid!) for best solderig results.

Acid flux is designed for soldering copper and brass plumbing parts and will corrode electrical connections.

The same cleanliness should apply when changing the quartz bulbs in headlights as again, skin oils will cause the bulb to prematurely fail if touched,and not wiped down with rubbing alcohol.

Something about the sodium in the skin oils causing hot spots in the glass envelope of the light bulb...

Motor Head wrote: Try and see if it is a cable or battery issue.
Jump from a car battery, with the car turned OFF. One cable to the bikes engine case negative. Then the other go to the starter post positive. Use jumper cables. if it turns it over then, see which side is low current flow. Move the neg to the battery of the bike. Try it. Then do the Positive and try it. If it spins over fine through those tests suspect that the battery you have is bad. Check the battery voltage after charging, then while cranking. It should be close or just above 13v after a fresh charge, may take overnight. Then when cranking it should hold above 11v.

My battery is totally shot, the 12v was applied to it & the starter solenoid was 'jumped' as the starter button is not working. The 12v was eventually applied directly to the starter motor. Not even that would turn the engine over.

MFolks wrote: When soldering any connection, cleanliness is very important.If possible do not touch any item with your hands as the skin oils will make the connection contaminated. If possible after being touched, clean the area with rubbing alcohol,let dry, and then use a rosin flux(not acid!) for best solderig results.

Acid flux is designed for soldering copper and brass plumbing parts and will corrode electrical connections.

I believed the solder to be a decent enough job, definately not professional but decent. The post on the starter is made out of copper.

Did i read somewhere that some sort of Honda Starter motor will fit? I think i've got to the stage of couldnt be bothered anymore. Its all the draining of oil, removing side cases, removing instant gasket, then putting it all together again to find its still not working! The novelty soon wears off.

Try these two websites for starters & starter brushes:

www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm
www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

Thank you, 1st link is returning a file not found. I have a starter rebuild kit coming that i ordered a couple of weeks ago but i think the reolacable components in my starter are fine.

Check cables and battery.
Also I see that is a 2 brush starter, maybe the 4 brush rebuild kit can be fitted???? Don't know. But that would increase torque output.
But if battery or cables are the problem, any starter work will be negated.

When i viewed the bike at the time of purchase the bike was jump started off a car, the starter whined a bit (obviously the planetary gear) but eventually started.

All i have done to the bike is replace the starter solenoid & starter clutch springs. Therefore in my view the bike should still start? Thats whats leading me towards blaming my soldering?

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. A website for starter motors is:

www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

I don't know if the rebuild kit for a 4 brush starter could be fitted to up grade that 2 brush unit, never tried it. But that would increase torque. But this soldering you did, without a picture, well?
Did you clean up the commutator really well? What did you do/ use there?
A fresh set of brushes on a old commutator surface may not perform any better than the old ones.