TOPIC:

Check cables and battery.
Also I see that is a 2 brush starter, maybe the 4 brush rebuild kit can be fitted???? Don't know. But that would increase torque output.
But if battery or cables are the problem, any starter work will be negated.

When i viewed the bike at the time of purchase the bike was jump started off a car, the starter whined a bit (obviously the planetary gear) but eventually started.

All i have done to the bike is replace the starter solenoid & starter clutch springs. Therefore in my view the bike should still start? Thats whats leading me towards blaming my soldering?

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. A website for starter motors is:

www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

I don't know if the rebuild kit for a 4 brush starter could be fitted to up grade that 2 brush unit, never tried it. But that would increase torque. But this soldering you did, without a picture, well?
Did you clean up the commutator really well? What did you do/ use there?
A fresh set of brushes on a old commutator surface may not perform any better than the old ones.

Now im going to amuse you. Whats a commutator?

I havent repalced anything inside the starter & havent touched anythinh electrical with any kind of solvent or cleaner. I used brake cleaner to clean both end caps when dismantled, the planetary gears & the metal plate in the nose that the planetary gears rotate on. All gears were regreased on reassembly.

The commutator is the part of the starter motor the brushes touch, transmitting the electrical energy to the motor, so mechanical work will be accomplished. Most motor rebulding shops have a special lathe designed to undercut and smooth the commutators of worn motors.

That is the surface where the bushes contact against. Needs to be cleaned up so good contact can be made. A rebuilder would probably turn it on a small lathe to remove the wear. Some would clean it with sand paper, scotch Brite, or it worn enough it can be chucked in an electric drill motor and a file held up to it to Turn it down to a new surface.
Of course electrically, it should have contact through each of the windings, and not shorted to the shaft. Yours would be OK there as it would have a spot where it doesn't spin, or arcing at the cables if shorted.
In order to make full torque it must recieve full power.

Another possible question about the motorcycles charging system is about the alternator:

Stator, the stationary part, composed of wire windings, a strong alternating curent(A.C) is produced when a magnet is passed or moved through the stator.

Rotor, the moving part of the alternator, usually made up of many strong magnets secured in a round frame, fastened to the end of a crankshaft, when turned, creates the A.C. field.

Sorry, I thought that was the armature. I cleaned the end of it with some fine wire wool to remove the carbon deposit from the brushes si I could see shiny copper again

Armature is close enough, that the surface is clean etc, is the important part not the name.
So cleaned up but you wonder about the solder connection you made?
Well i would go through the battery and cable testing. Use the Mfolks write or whatever, but get it checked. you could put a different or new starter and still find the issue of cables and/ or battery.

well he did say his battery was shot. so i would think he should buy a new battery and get it fully charged. seems like hes running in circles right now.

Motor Head wrote: Armature is close enough, that the surface is clean etc, is the important part not the name.
So cleaned up but you wonder about the solder connection you made?
Well i would go through the battery and cable testing. Use the Mfolks write or whatever, but get it checked. you could put a different or new starter and still find the issue of cables and/ or battery.

I hesitate to step in because Motor Head is doing excellent, but I figured you need to know that the four brush kit will make the starter turn backward.

Went through all that on a 440 twin on the twins site.