Timing Light Not Working with Dyna Copper Core

I just recently switched out my Dyna-III for a Dyna-S unit and I am having trouble setting the timing.

I purchased an "inductive timing light" from the local auto parts store and no matter what plug wire I hook up to there is no flashing light. I checked and rechecked all connections and still nothing.

So I read the owner's manual and it said the light would not work with copper core wires. WTF? It says to replace plug wire with suppression type.

Is there a work around for this? I do not have any suppression type plug wires and to be honest think it is ridiculus that I would have to switch plug wires.

The bike is running strong and sounds good to the ear but I do want to verify the timing "dynamically" just to be sure.

What light are you using? As I would think it should pick-up fine. You didn't drop/ smack it around, as this can damage it. Try it on your ca/ truck/ lawnmower to verify it works.

It is a Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light. And I know that "I" did not drop it or cause any damage to it. I just took it out of the box for the first time today shortly before I tried to set the timing. But I guess I do not know if it was dropped or broken at the store before I even laid hands on it.

Good Idea to verify its function.

yeah I'm going to test it on my car and/or take it back to the store. Z1 has a light that says it works on all gasoline engines and is powered by 2 D-Cell batteries, maybe I will order that one and see what happens.

Is it ok to ride if it is running strong and sounds good to the ear (no misfires and it seems to be running smoothly)? The bike has been stranded at a friends while I sorted out this ignition problem and I really need to get it home.

I recommend getting a light that has a built in advance mechanism, either digital or like my 30 year old dial. Sears sells a pretty decent one, my friend bought one a long time ago and it still works fine, with a dial.

Oh I just Googled and read your lights Bio.
"Molded inductive pick-up clamps over spark wire Linear Xenon flash tube and focused Fresnel lens Solid-state circuitry for years of reliable service Heavy-duty leads with color-coded insulated battery clamps. Works with all American and imported 12-volt gas engines. Extra tough to stand up to more abuse. With rubber nose cone and molded inductive pick-up. Detachable heavy-duty leads"
Looks like it should have a dial for the advance function. Hopefully you can get it to work, or exchange it for a new one as it should do nicely.

oops that was the wrong model number. This is the one that I have:

www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16313

It has No dial and only has one single button. There were digital types also available at the local parts store but I thought they were unnecessary.

Just also realized that testing it on my car really will not do anything for me since the owner's manual clearly states that it does not work on copper wires.

So I guess I'm going back tomorrow and shelling out the extra bucks for the digital timing light.

well you should be able to test the one you have now on the car as it won't have "Copper Wires".

I can but not sure what that is going to do for me other than prove that it works on vehicles other than my kz650 and even if it does work on the car I need to get something else to work on the bike.

Still kinda irritated that the packaging did not clearly state that it is not compatible with copper core wires. I am going to email the manufacturer and see if any of their other lights work.

Any opinion on riding the bike with out dynamically timing it?

Did you follow Dyna's set-up instructions for setting base timing? If so it will within 5 degrees most likely. If it pings at all, back out of the throttle. Then retard a few degrees and retry. Really total advance is the most critical, at higher RPM you may not here the ping but it may occur. That is why either a degree wheel on the advancer or on the light so total advance is known. I think Kaw says 40, but I find 36 a bit better on my setup. Some engines are as much as 45, depends on several factors.

I did use a 12v test meter to statically time the motor. But I was not getting a good connection and when I approached the F-mark I only got a spark at the type of my test meter instead of the bulb lighting up. So I thought that it would be best to move to the timing light since it was more accurate. I also was concerned that since it was misting rain all day that I would never get good contact with my test meter as the Dyna instructions indicate.

Do more advanced Timing Lights allow you to fine tune the timing better?