Dyna-s installed "easy"

Well I got a chance tonight to install the dyna-s on my 1977 kz1000. Wow I was surprized how easy it was. I got her timed and took out for a short drive to see if my plugs would still foul out. Went about 15 miles and pulled the plugs. Sure enough black and sooty, darn it. Well next will be the the dyna coils, maybe tomorrow. If the coils don't do the job I guess maybe the carbs again.

Air filter clean? A dirty filter can make the bike run rich.
Checked the input voltage to the primary(small wires) side of the coil? It should be battery voltage.

A similar problem over at www.kawasakimotorcycle.org

Re: Z1 900 No Spark on #1 Cyllinder
often the problem is poor voltage to the coils. A simple check with a test meter will tell the health of the wiring. With a fully charged battery, check the voltage across the two battery terminals. You should see around 12.5v. Then check the voltage on the yellow/red wire under the tank that the coils with one probe and the other back at the battery negative post. This is a switched power feed - so you will need to turn the ignition on and make sure the kill switch is set to run.

You need to see a MINIMUM of 11v - ideally over 11.5v. If you are reading under 11v, clean all the electrical connections - that's all the connector blocks, bullet connectors, etc. - and retest. With less than 11v at the coil, the spark is very weak.

MFolks wrote:

Air filter clean? A dirty filter can make the bike run rich.
Checked the input voltage to the primary(small wires) side of the coil? It should be battery voltage.

A similar problem over at www.kawasakimotorcycle.org

Re: Z1 900 No Spark on #1 Cyllinder
often the problem is poor voltage to the coils. A simple check with a test meter will tell the health of the wiring. With a fully charged battery, check the voltage across the two battery terminals. You should see around 12.5v. Then check the voltage on the yellow/red wire under the tank that the coils with one probe and the other back at the battery negative post. This is a switched power feed - so you will need to turn the ignition on and make sure the kill switch is set to run.

You need to see a MINIMUM of 11v - ideally over 11.5v. If you are reading under 11v, clean all the electrical connections - that's all the connector blocks, bullet connectors, etc. - and retest. With less than 11v at the coil, the spark is very weak.

New air filter, 12.5v across the battery (new), 11.7v going to the coils(yellow/red wires)all connecters cleaned plus the kills switch (taken apart and cleaned out). I have good strong spark, but only get anout 20 miles before the plugs foul out.

Running any fuel additives? E85 pump gas? Tried going up one heat range on the sparkplugs? Standard plugs should be NGK B8ES or Denso W24ESU gapped between 0.028" to 0.032".

Compression good? Burning oil?

If not already done, would also assure correct valve clearances (compression check alone is not sufficient), and also assure proper fuel levels using clear tube test.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

If not already done, would also assure correct valve clearances (compression check alone is not sufficient), and also assure proper fuel levels using clear tube test.

Good Fortune!

Could valve clearance be in issue with only 11,600 miles on the bike? I did the clear tube test but I will sure try again (check, check and double check.)

MFolks wrote:

Running any fuel additives? E85 pump gas? Tried going up one heat range on the sparkplugs? Standard plugs should be NGK B8ES or Denso W24ESU gapped between 0.028" to 0.032".

Compression good? Burning oil?

No additives, already runnung B7ES. I have Denso's but did not want to use them until I got her going (not the cheapest)

Sorry if I missed it and all confirmations from previous posting had been accomplished but here goes...

Had you cleaned (contact cleaner/polish) the ignition switch?

Ken, what is the battery voltage 4000rpm?
Should measure ~ 13.5 - 14Vdc...

Just in case, this is for a KZ900 but should be close or exactly as you have on yours...

Regarding valve clearance yes indeed for spec is every 4000 miles...

Same time, even with correct clearances, without the ideal voltage through the ignition switch you'd have the same results...

Assumption is you went with the B7es for this problem?

You mentioned coils but what about the plug wires/caps themselves... Soft, flexible or hard and brittle?

Possibly incorrect jetting or faulty pilot circuits in the carbs... Would also cause rich "Carbon" conditions...

Frustrating no doubt but look at how much your learning about your old girl... Keep at it, you'll get there and it will all be worth while...

On my KZ900 I had the EXACT same problem, and found it to be that my choke plungers were not seating all the way. Even after I took the carbs apart and cleaned them the problem persisted. I cured it bi; When I closed the choke I not only pushed it down, I pushed down, puled up, pushed down, puled up pushed down, in rapid succession. I have to do that to this day but it works every time. I think that the rubber pads on the bottom of the plungers are warn out or hardened.I used to have the problem so bad before I discovered what it was that two cylinders would stop running after about 10 Miles. Once I started to close the choke in this manner, I never had the problem again.

Hay Go back to bed Rock, I'm here now I have the situation in hand. :laugh: :laugh: :blush:

Old Man Rock wrote:

Regarding valve clearance yes indeed for spec is every 4000 miles...

Same time, even with correct clearances, without the ideal voltage through the ignition switch you'd have the same results...

Assumption is you went with the B7es for this problem?

You mentioned coils but what about the plug wires/caps themselves... Soft, flexible or hard and brittle?

Possibly incorrect jetting or faulty pilot circuits in the carbs... Would also cause rich "Carbon" conditions...

Frustrating no doubt but look at how much your learning about your old girl... Keep at it, you'll get there and it will all be worth while...

New wires (thanks Otakar), just took the carbs off and reset the float levels to the minimum (clear tube) and did the bench syn. Took it for a short spin. Still fouled plugs. I guess my next task will be to check the valves. I assume I will have to have a new gasket for this one. I'm almost wishing I would have left it parked.