Dyna-s installed "easy"

I do not suspect the valve clearances to be the problem behind your fouled plugs. Are you burning an exorbitant amount of oil? You may have bad valve stem seals or because some seized rings. If your bike has been sitting for a VERY long time the rings might need to be freed up. Use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner to do this. It can be bought at any Mopar dealer parts department. I still suspect the choke plungers not seating properly. I also rebuilt my carbs on my 900 and did everything right but had the same problem.

It's critical that both pilot air passage and #1 pilot air jet be perfectly clean and unobstructed. See image below (area shaded in blue color).

The #2 pilot jet should be removed for proper cleaning.

May need new #2 pilot jets, especially if existing pilot jets have been damaged or "reamed out" by over-zealous cleaning.

Or perhaps the existing pilot jet is too large.
New pilot jets are relatively inexpensive, and available at Z1E in sizes 15, 17.5, 20 and 22.5.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1487
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1488
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1489
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2088

Where running airbox, would assure there's nothing obstructing its intake area under the seat, such a shop rag, gloves, etc.

If fitted with pods, would assure there's no blockage at entrance to pilot air passage.
Could test run without pods to aid diagnosis.

Would also frown on using a hotter B7ES spark plug (instead of the standard B8ES) to avoid fouling by "loading up" the plugs. The hotter plug may simply mask a symptom, and imo is needed mostly by grannies whose riding generally consists of slowly plonking around never blasting through the gears and not riding hard enough to keep the plugs clean.

Good Fortune!

Question for I'm still confused on his voltage drop to the coils... If I understood it correctly, missing 2Vdc in running state of operations that is considered a fairly large drop... Again, I most likely missed it...:blush:

What is the measured battery voltage at 4Krpm?

OMR

Patton wrote:

It's critical that both pilot air passage and #1 pilot air jet be perfectly clean and unobstructed. See image below (area shaded in blue color).

The #2 pilot jet should be removed for proper cleaning.

May need new #2 pilot jets, especially if existing pilot jets have been damaged or "reamed out" by over-zealous cleaning.

Or perhaps the existing pilot jet is too large.
New pilot jets are relatively inexpensive, and available at Z1E in sizes 15, 17.5, 20 and 22.5.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1487
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1488
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1489
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2088

Where running airbox, would assure there's nothing obstructing its intake area under the seat, such a shop rag, gloves, etc.

If fitted with pods, would assure there's no blockage at entrance to pilot air passage.
Could test run without pods to aid diagnosis.

Would also frown on using a hotter B7ES spark plug (instead of the standard B8ES) to avoid fouling by "loading up" the plugs. The hotter plug may simply mask a symptom, and imo is needed mostly by grannies whose riding generally consists of slowly plonking around never blasting through the gears and not riding hard enough to keep the plugs clean.

Good Fortune!

I hate to admit this , but I did not even know pilot screw #1 was there. I was all over those carbs twice and though I had found every pilot. I'll take them off again, starting to get good at taking them off.

otakar wrote:

I do not suspect the valve clearances to be the problem behind your fouled plugs. Are you burning an exorbitant amount of oil? You may have bad valve stem seals or because some seized rings. If your bike has been sitting for a VERY long time the rings might need to be freed up. Use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner to do this. It can be bought at any Mopar dealer parts department. I still suspect the choke plungers not seating properly. I also rebuilt my carbs on my 900 and did everything right but had the same problem.

No oil burn at all, When I first got her going the 3 of the choke plungers were sticking. Worked them just a few times and now they seems smooth. When all the way down (via the lever) I've tried to push them down more , but they seems seated. Is there anything inside where these plungers seat that could be the problem. Thanks again or the plug wires, worked out great! Have not put the Denso plugs in yet, but I did regap my NGK's to 40. Did want to trash the Denso's to many times.

Old Man Rock wrote:

Question for I'm still confused on his voltage drop to the coils... If I understood it correctly, missing 2Vdc in running state of operations that is considered a fairly large drop... Again, I most likely missed it...:blush:

What is the measured battery voltage at 4Krpm?

OMR

I'll post the number again today, running and non-running.

ken wrote:

Patton wrote:

It's critical that both pilot air passage and #1 pilot air jet be perfectly clean and unobstructed. See image below (area shaded in blue color).

The #2 pilot jet should be removed for proper cleaning.

May need new #2 pilot jets, especially if existing pilot jets have been damaged or "reamed out" by over-zealous cleaning.

Or perhaps the existing pilot jet is too large.
New pilot jets are relatively inexpensive, and available at Z1E in sizes 15, 17.5, 20 and 22.5.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1487
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1488
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1489
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2088

Where running airbox, would assure there's nothing obstructing its intake area under the seat, such a shop rag, gloves, etc.

If fitted with pods, would assure there's no blockage at entrance to pilot air passage.
Could test run without pods to aid diagnosis.

Would also frown on using a hotter B7ES spark plug (instead of the standard B8ES) to avoid fouling by "loading up" the plugs. The hotter plug may simply mask a symptom, and imo is needed mostly by grannies whose riding generally consists of slowly plonking around never blasting through the gears and not riding hard enough to keep the plugs clean.

Good Fortune!

I hate to admit this , but I did not even know pilot screw #1 was there. I was all over those carbs twice and though I had found every pilot. I'll take them off again, starting to get good at taking them off.

#1 is a jet (pilot air jet). Am pretty sure it is pressed in and doesn't screw out. The jet should be unobstructed to assure correct amount of air enters through it into the pilot air passage to reach the #2 pilot jet.

Raw fuel inside float bowl enters lower end of pilot jet. Air from air passage goes to the pilot jet where it blends with the raw fuel forming an air/fuel mixture which goes into carb bore through #3 bypass outlet and through #4 pilot outlet.
The amount of mixture going into carb bore through #4 pilot outlet may be increased (enrichens pilot circuit) or decreased (leans pilot circuit) by the #5 pilot screw.

A too rich pilot circuit may cause sooty spark plugs. Could try screwing the #5 pilot screws in, say 1/2 turn, for a leaner pilot mixture, and test run. But this is not a substitute for a perfectly clean pilot circuit with correct size undamaged pilot jets.

Good Fortune!

With reference to the difference between battery voltage (measured across battery terminals) and voltage actually reaching the coil primary terminal ---

If not already done, would assure integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine. This connection sometimes gets corroded and fails to produce the best possible ground.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

With reference to the difference between battery voltage (measured across battery terminals) and voltage actually reaching the coil primary terminal ---

If not already done, would assure integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine. This connection sometimes gets corroded and fails to produce the best possible ground.

Good Fortune!

Just check voltage across the battery 12.2v. At the yellow/red wire going into the coil it drops to 10.43v. I've all ready cleaned all the connections(twice) and took apart the kill switch and cleaned it. Across the battery while running 4,000 rpm's 13.5v.:S

Dead on Patton...

Ken, you truly need to confirm/repair voltage issues pre carb work.... With ideal voltages being applied to your coil/sparkies you may find the carbs are operating within spec.... then again, may not but without ideal voltage you'll never truly know...

Not to mention if you have a loaded down situation, more damage can occur... regulator/rectifier circuits...

Go through the process confirming stator/rectifier/regulator are within specifications. If so, then it's just a matter of finding where the voltage drop is occurring... i.e across the ignition switch or run switch as examples.

As can be reviewed in the attached image, this is your basic wiring required to start and run a KZ900/1000 engine... In disconnecting all non related electrical such as lights, instrument cluster, relays etc... you'll be able to determine quicker where this 2Vdc drop is occurring...

As Patton so wisely mentioned, the engine must be properly grounded...

OMR

After reading the post it seems you have cover most of the bases more than one in some cases. I couldnt help but notice you said twice that you have not put in the denso's because of the cost. I would go and buy a "new" set of plugs and see what happens. Sounds like you have fouled the plugs many times over.


My .02 cents

ken wrote:

Patton wrote:

With reference to the difference between battery voltage (measured across battery terminals) and voltage actually reaching the coil primary terminal ---

If not already done, would assure integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine. This connection sometimes gets corroded and fails to produce the best possible ground.

Good Fortune!

Just check voltage across the battery 12.2v. At the yellow/red wire going into the coil it drops to 10.43v. I've all ready cleaned all the connections(twice) and took apart the kill switch and cleaned it. Across the battery while running 4,000 rpm's 13.5v.:S

Edit: Posted before noticing that OMR had beat me to it.

Drop from 12.2v to 10.43v is too much voltage loss.

Would download wiring diagram, and trace voltage reading at each juncture from fuse to ignition to kill to coil.

Start with voltage directly from fuse, and then at each connector, and in and out of each switch, and each connector to coil.

The drop may result from poor battery ground connection at rear of engine, corroded contacts at either end of the fuse, any connector along the way, in or out of switches.

The "deoxit" product recommended by MFolks, available at Radio Shack, or similar electrical cleaner from auto parts store, could help assure good connections along the way from battery to coil primary terminals.

Unless internally frayed, a wire usually either connects or doesn't connect. Am more suspicious of a connection (connector) or corrosion inside a switch.

Good Fortune!