1981 Gpz1100 / kz1100b1 Electrical Schematic

I have a 1981 Gpz1100, better known as a kz1100b1. The headlight was not working after the two years of storage. I first thought it might be a ground problem. I checked my grounds and one was not very clean. I cleaned it and the headlight came on. I started the bike several times and the headlight seemed to work fine. I started it up and let it run for a while and gave it a bit of throttle and the headlight went out again. One of the fuses in the fuse box was rather hot too. I do not have a manual for this model bike. Does anyone have a book for this model where I can get a scematic copy and maybe a troubleshooting section...

Thanks guys...

Cwise

This link should enable wiring diagram download.

Click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...w&gid=170&Itemid=108

Good Fortune!

Hello, cwiseguy and WELKCOME to KZR forum!

We're glad you're here!

Good Fortune!

Got it...THAT WAS QUICK...

Thanks, Cwiseguy

I am too...

Thanks, Cwiseguy

Your bike has the same system as mine, a headlight control system known as a "reserve lighting system".

It's designed to switch from a burned out high or low beam to be able to get you home to affect repairs.

If you're out driving in low beam and it burns out, the system will change to high beam but at a reduced voltage so on coming drivers are not blinded.

The module is usually located on the left side of the bike around where the IC Igniter is under the side cover.

I believe it has a six pin connector that plugs into the main harness/loom.

Any questions? Post back if you need help.......

Hello MFolks:

I started the bike and the high and low beams worked fine. Neither of them is burned out. The bulb is fine.

When I started the bike up again after...the headlight high and low beam both quit. I have not taken out the bulb again, but I would say that the bulb is fine.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Cwiseguy

Remove the headlight from the housing and check the three prong connector for voltage. One prong will be ground(usually BLACK with YELLOW stripe) with the other two being high and low beam.

If this checks good,open up the left handlebar switch pod,looking for corrosion/dirty contacts/broken wires.

I will surely be checking that tomorrow...I would say that the bulb is fine...But, I will check anyway...

I am going to all my connections too and make sure they are all clean and tight...

Like I mentioned, one of the lighting related fuses gets HOT...It has not blown, but it gets hot...It might blow as it is supposed to be a 10A and a 30A is in its place...

Thanks, Cwise

Remove the fuses one at a time(or make a diagram as to what goes where)get some Brasso or other metal polish, a cotton swab(Q-tip) and clean the fuse clip really well.

If the fuse sits loosely in the clip, it can be tightened up(with the fuse out)by gently squeezing with needle nose pliers.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

I use a very good brand of electrical contact cleaner/preservative called "De-oxit" available at Radio Shack stores in the U.S. and I'd imagine at most good electronic supply stores.

Their website is www.deoxit.com I use it on my bike's many and varied electrical connectors, my home cordless phone charging cradles, and the entertainment center patch cables.

I cleaned all the fuses and block today and checked the continuity of all the fuses. Before I even started looking at all the other things...

Good idea though...If I did not know to start there it would have been very helpful...

Thanks, Cwiseguy