1981 Gpz1100 / kz1100b1 Electrical Schematic

I have a contact cleaner I use a lot too, I will be using extensively tomorrow too..

Thanks, Cwiseguy

I think the FUSE getting HOT is trying to tell me something...

Cwiseguy

After being parked long enough for everything to cool down (say several hours or overnight), could experiment by first removing the headlight from its socket, and then see if the same fuse overheats.

Results might help aid further diagnosis.

Good Fortune!

UPDATE...

I checked and cleaned all the connections. The fuse still gets hot. The headlight stopped working. The headlight started working. The headlight stopped working. I DID ALL OF THIS WITH TURNING THE KEY ON ONLY, I NEVER STARTED THE BIKE. I turned the key on and no headlight. I said what the hell, and started the bike. After a few seconds the headlight came back on. I just let it run. The fuse got hot. ALL of a sudden the bike quit and everything went off. I turned the key on and off quite a few times. Nothing, no lights, no nothing, dead. I let it cool down for a few minutes. Turned the key, then everything came back on, so I started it pulled it back in the trailer and turned it off...

Any ideas?

Thanks, Cwise

The fuse is telling you that the circuit is pulling to much current/ amperage. It should be able to hold the rated 10 amp fuse, with the higher 30 you are now not protecting the circuitry. You are probably over heating at either the fuse panel, check the back side for melting, or the Ignition switch. Is your head light bulb the correct wattage? You may have a short to ground on this circuit. Replacing with a heavier fuse is not recommended, as it usually will damage more expensive components/ wiring.

I found a 10A fuse and put it in place of the 30A that was in the wrong place...I put the 30A in the correct place which had a 10A in it...

After putting the FUSES in the correct spots...I tried my last post.

Thanks, Cwise

Dis-connect the Negative(-) battery teminal from the battery,open up the back of the fuse block and look for damaged/over heated wire insulation.

The rear cover has some small detents to be pressed to remove it.

I did and it looked fine...

However, I think I will redo the fuse block with the newer blade fuses. I see a lot of that being done on this site. There is surely a reason for it.

After I do this upgrade I will see if it still heats up the fuse. If it still does after the redo I will look at the reg/rec and the stator. I don't think it will be the stator though...

BUT.................For the bike to be running and all of a sudden shut OFF, with no lights, period. Then had to cool down for a few minutes, I would think that there is something shutting the system down because something is getting too hot. THEN when it cools off it allows the circuit to come back alive. AM I RIGHT...Could this be the rec/reg heating up and shutting down?

I am not sure if a reg/rec would do this. I can't think of any other part in the system that could heat up and completely shut down the system...

?Cwise?

cwiseguy wrote:

...checked and cleaned all the connections. The fuse still gets hot. The headlight stopped working. The headlight started working. The headlight stopped working. I DID ALL OF THIS WITH TURNING THE KEY ON ONLY, I NEVER STARTED THE BIKE. I turned the key on and no headlight. I said what the hell, and started the bike. After a few seconds the headlight came back on. I just let it run. The fuse got hot. ALL of a sudden the bike quit and everything went off. I turned the key on and off quite a few times. Nothing, no lights, no nothing, dead. I let it cool down for a few minutes. Turned the key, then everything came back on, so I started it pulled it back in the trailer and turned it off....

cwiseguy wrote:

...think I will redo the fuse block with the newer blade fuses...After I do this upgrade I will see if it still heats up the fuse. If it still does after the redo I will look at the reg/rec and the stator. I don't think it will be the stator though...For the bike to be running and all of a sudden shut OFF, with no lights, period. Then had to cool down for a few minutes, I would think that there is something shutting the system down because something is getting too hot. THEN when it cools off it allows the circuit to come back alive. AM I RIGHT...Could this be the rec/reg heating up and shutting down?

I am not sure if a reg/rec would do this. I can't think of any other part in the system that could heat up and completely shut down the system....

I don't suspect the charging system (stator or reg/rec) in this situation.

If not already done, would consider possibility of a faulty ignition switch or dimmer switch, and maybe even the reserve lighting switch.

May require detailed tracing for a short or possibly intermittant short in the wiring system.

Seems strange when everything shuts down that the fuse hasn't blown, instead of over heating.

Could experiment by running without the ignition switch (leave switch in normal OFF position with no key) via hot wire from batt+ terminal to coil primaries. If symptoms persist, could (just for grins) detach reg/rec, and repeat experiment.

Of course, don't leave the bike hot-wired like that for very long, because it's same as leaving the ignition switch ON.

Good Fortune!

That's what I don't get. WHAT is shutting everything down?

If a STATOR gets shorted what would it do? I have seen them OPEN before, and they just don't charge a percentage, 1/3, 2/3, 3/3, appx...

A reg/rec?

I don't see any type of a brain box that might cause the system to completely shut down?

Thanks, Cwise

Charging system (stator and reg/rec) just keeps the battery charged. Everything else relies on the battery for electrical power.

Without any charging system components whatever, bike should run just fine, with ignition and chassis electrics all working just fine --- until the battery runs down.
Some race bikes have no charging system at all, and run a total loss electric system.

Imo, the problem here isn't the stator or reg/rec. Other than maybe a short in batt+ wire running to reg/rec.

If not due to some corroded switch component, or short within either switch, or otherwise faulty switch (ignition or dimmer), am thinking short somewhere in the wiring.

Also thinking these are not slow-blow type fuses.

Good Fortune!

Here is the fuse box I built for my GPz.