So, Here's The Problem, Any Thoughts/Experiences?

tek9iNe dude i appreciate the input so much u probably just saved me at least a couple hundred dollars in diagnosing the problem, i did both tests the ohm test, on my multimeter the baseline for ohm's says 1, when i tested all three wires the meter went to zero, so that said the stator is bad, i did the running test on ac current and all three combinations read only 30 so according to this test the stator is bad, bottom line THE STATOR IS BAD, makes sense that after 30 years the stator has lost magnetism, i am sure i can do the job myself, i have a new gasket and gromet for the left side case, just need the stator now, next question is that when i remove the old stator should i leave it attached to the harness and install the new one replacing each wire one at a time, so as not to mix them up, would a bad ground cause these readings if not i see no need to take apart the harness and start chasing wires, by replacing the stator my problem should be resolve, wasted $75 on the RR but u live and learn right, thanks again much appreciated, when i get this Monsaki going for good i might have to take the few hour trek to canada to buy u a beer , and thanks to Mfolks too ur input was very useful too but MO is too far for me to come down and buy you a beer ha ha

The YELLOW wires coming from the stator are three phase;that is it makes no difference which goes where.
By that I mean the output windings are 120 degrees apart.

Some of the early Z1's and maybe Kz900's were phase sensitive, if in doubt make a diagram as to what connects to the output wires.

Check the three "Bullet" connectors for corrosion too.
While the sprocket cover is off, now's the time to clean the build up of chain lube on the clutch push rod and clean and re-lube the throw out mechanism for the clutch cable(it's on the sprocket cover).

thanks i already took the sproket cover off and the connections were shit, the guy before me must have been looking for the same issue because the connections werent stock and i thought for sure that once i got good connections and shrink wrapped em than it would be good. i cleaned all the bs out by the front sprocket and the clucth linkage(the clutch is deffinately better than before). tested it and the charging problem was still there. used your test for resistance with ohms with the bike off and the stator tested bad. i did the running test also and got readings of 30 volts or under at 4000 rpms, so that also said the stator was bad. the best price i can get for a new one is ricks electrics for $115 delivered, so now i have to replace the stator and gasket, previous owner tried saving the gasket and didn't replace the gromet so she leaks a little oil. got new gasket and gromet so once i get the stator i gotta do all that and change the connections under the sproket case too. then she should be ready to goB) .

It's rare, but sometimes the magnetic rotor gets damaged and cannot produce enough magnetic force to create the alternating current.

I've looked through my factory shop manual for my 82 GPz1100 B2 model and can't find any test for magnetic strength. I suppose once the stator cover is off, you can use a screwdriver and see if all the magnets will attract it.

got the stator , installed took way longer than i thought, i dont have a shop manual and this is the first bike other than a dirtbike i am working on, got it in, used my nightstand lamp to continue in the dark, shes in tomorrow morning i'll test her again and i'm sure i nailed it this time, thanks for all the info, pray for me:lol:

everything is great, she's ripin now, onward march until i'm satisfied, prob never though,

So Dancing Bear did u get ur scoot fixed?bj

hocbj23 wrote:

So Dancing Bear did u get ur scoot fixed?bj

Yup, she's all good now

PS. It's GUNMAN.

MFolks wrote:

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3,2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.

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Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators
A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

Is this the same for the KZ750e 4 cylinder engine?

The reason I ask is that the Clymer manual doesn't say anything about reving to 4000 to get 50 a/c volts.
A test sheet I have form the old dealership for testing the KZ650 says to test at idle and you should get 20-30 volts a/c.
I have 37 volts currently at idle.
So which should I go by?

I'm not sure about the 650's and 750's for alternator output. Have you been to www.kz650.info ? they might be able to help as many parts are interchangeable between the two engine sizes.