So, Here's The Problem, Any Thoughts/Experiences?

:laugh:

I liked the origional kaw electronics, till they failed.

The Dyna Coils/S work fantastic, and the price is right for the performance.

I have the Green 3ohm coils.

green 3 ohm acers is the place to be
farm livin is the life for me
highway stretching out so far and wide
keep your stocker just give me that POWER slide

I am surprised that the stock ignition went bad. You don't hear that very often. It will go bad if the input voltage is too high however. Do you think that your bad reg-rec might have knocked it out? I bought two spare units on eBay just incase mine goes out and also built two units with the GM modules. I have the gray coils which are for the stock IC box and the GM mod. The best combo is the GM unit with the Nology 2.4 Ohm coil that gives you some major spark in a tiny package with good dwell.

otto peace out dude

jeffasaki wrote:

otto peace out dude

?????

:laugh: :laugh: Good Stuff.

Yeah, I'll bet the crap Reg/rect unit probly toasted my origional ignition.
Too bad, cause it did work pretty good.
I did notice an instant improvement with the Dyna setup, but I'm fairly certain that is because I like to be a little on the rich side at idle.

Peace.

15.3 v at the battery is not an abnormal reading for these bikes.My 82 has the same reading and I am running Dyna S 3 ohm coils and ignition ,Taylor wires, and the stock NGK plugs. I have run dx on stator,rectifier/regulator, etc and they all seem to work fine.One other thought is vapor lock due to fuel boil off.When u run for 30-40 minutes, open the tank and see if u see little bubbles coming from the tank bottom.If so u may have a vapor lock problem.bj

Otto (peace out dude) is just my bleary eyed drunken way of saying goodnight

hocbj23 wrote:

15.3 v at the battery is not an abnormal reading for these bikes.My 82 has the same reading and I am running Dyna S 3 ohm coils and ignition ,Taylor wires, and the stock NGK plugs. I have run dx on stator,rectifier/regulator, etc and they all seem to work fine.One other thought is vapor lock due to fuel boil off.When u run for 30-40 minutes, open the tank and see if u see little bubbles coming from the tank bottom.If so u may have a vapor lock problem.bj

I'm not sure if I agree...

15.3 Volts is very high for a lead acid or Glass Matt battery. Especially if its just sitting there doing nothing.

Here's some info:

These are general voltage ranges for six-cell lead-acid batteries:

Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 12.6 V to 12.8 V (2.10-2.13V per cell)
Open-circuit at full discharge: 11.8 V to 12.0 V
Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
Continuous-preservation (float) charging: 13.4 V for gelled electrolyte; 13.5 V for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and 13.8 V for flooded cells
1.All voltages are at 20 °C (68 °F), and must be adjusted -0.022V/°C for temperature changes.
2.Float voltage recommendations vary, according to the manufacturer's recommendation.
3.Precise (±0.05 V) float voltage is critical to longevity; insufficient (sulfation) is almost as bad as excessive (corrosion and electrolyte loss)
Typical (daily) charging: 14.2 V to 14.5 V (depending on manufacturer's recommendation)
Equalization charging (for flooded lead acids): 15 V for no more than 2 hours. Battery temperature must be monitored.
Gassing threshold: 14.4 V
After full charge, terminal voltage drops quickly to 13.2 V and then slowly to 12.6 V.

15.3 Volts resting means I'm frying my battery. :S
Its not the vapor lock thing... I tried opening tank. besides I can see the gas flowing thru my clear lines.

Thanks,

Peace.

i have the same bike i just purchased and had a electrical problem as well, the charge was too low, i did some testing and believed it to be a problem with the rectifier/regulator, bought a new one and plugged it in . reved the engine and read on the multimeter the voltage was going above 13, good i rode the bike a bit and checked it again but the voltage was not quite making it up that high. tested the battery with the bike off the voltage was 12.71. I rode the bike up to have the tires replaced and checked it again while it was running it seemed as though the new regulator/rectifier was dumping the excess current because when i stopped reving the engine the voltage evened out and stayed constant at about 12.6 at idle, i'm hoping the new RR is designed to dump the charge earlier since i heard there was a problem with these overcharging and frying the battery, is it possible that the new RR are set to dump the current a little bit earlier so as not to fry the battery, the battery was brand new and i did run it down prob about 4 times before i "fixed" the problem now i'm hoping the RR is designed to dump the current earlier or maybe i ran the battery down too many times ????????????? i got the RR from ricks electrics through a friend

I think the newer electronics in a modern Rect/reg unit actually perform a better job of maintaining an already fully charged battery by doing as you say, dumping the extra wattage as heat.

A continuous preservation charge for a flooded cell battery is 13.8 Volts. If your charging system is around this while cruising, then your good to go.

Keep using it "as is", and check next day before you ride. If the battery is maintaining above 12.6 Volts, somethings working :laugh:

so did u replace the r/r and fix the problem? Or is bike still acting weird?bj