87 KZ1000-P6 coils

otakar wrote:

Make sure that you also order a set of ignition wires to go with them. They are in the same add that I posted for you from Z1E. Don't look for blue ones, I made those myself. I find the best plugs to run are Denso W24ES-U which are coincidently the same as ACCEL 142 I open my gap to .060" but .040 is adequate.
www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-0142

I see you don't use resistor plugs. Do you have resistor caps instead? And what's the thinking with going one way or the other? I currently use the NGK resistor plugs and was going to buy the standard wires.

My thinking is the resistor caps/sparkplugs are designed to reduce the RFI when the plugs fire(makes the radio's and T.V.'s audio/video snap and pop)Are they really needed?

I would not suggest using both resistive caps and wires as I believe the spark energy would be reduced.

You do not require resistor anything on these bikes. You might just be a little annoying to the guy you are riding next to. But normally we use resistor caps only.

WOW! I have a brand new bike. I can't believe the difference those Dyna coils made. I could tell the instant I hit the starter. She came to life like never before. And I've never heard my bike idle so smooth. I took her out tonight and it was like a completely different bike. Thanks for all the advice guys.

Get yourself a set of ACCEL #142 "U"-Groove spark plugs from summit racing for $2.25 each and open the gap to .045-.050" and start running Lucas "Fuel treatment" (2.5oz/10gal gas) in each tank and find out a what really smooth and economical engine runs like.
www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-0142/
www.summitracing.com/parts/LUC-10003-1/
The Lucas treatment you can find at any good auto parts stores. I buy it by the Gallon, because I run it also in all of my cars, form my dodge van to my supercharged Jaguar XJR
Also make sure that you don't run normal automotive oil in the crank case. Most guys either spend the money for motorcycle oil or run Shell Rotella-T. The engine requires the ZDDP which is in these oils. This can also be found in racing oils. I did a thread about the spark plugs a couple weeks ago.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=4&id=351334

The reason you want to run the Lucas, is because these older bikes have a habit of burning oil. It is just in their nature. Once the engine has over 5000 Mi on it it will burn oil. The Lucas will keep the combustion chambers and valves clean and in turn keep the compression constant and flame front more regular. If your bike has more than 12,000 Mi on it you can go to your local Chrysler dealer and get a can of Mopar "Combustion chamber cleaner", or get it on eBay here.
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Combustion-Cha...6b93bd#ht_500wt_1182
This is exactly the same stuff and quite a bit cheaper.
And use this two or three times and it will do the job in a flash. Than use the Lucas to keep them clean.

I agree with badrObot, THANKS GUYS!

I only put on new wires and plugs and I still get decent coil function, but I know where to go and what to look for.

I finally don't smell unburnt gas. It starts with NO choke instantly, and while it needs time to warm up, still it's night and day for plug color, and performance.


I like the combustion chamber cleaner too, I know I got a crud build up. Im hoping the crud isnt the motor's sealer, LOL

You will find that with the larger gap on the hi-output coils you will get more complete ignition and this will provide better power and better fuel efficiency. The best way to use the "spray" combustion chamber cleaner" is to;
1) heat up the engine to full desperation temperature.
2) remove the spark plugs while hot.
3) Spray in the cleaner until it comes out the hole.
4) replace the spark plugs immediately.
5) wait until the engine cools down, or till next morning.
6) go for a VERY BRISK ride for about half an hour.
7) repeat step 1-6, 3-4 times.
Now you have a clean engine
use the Lucas in every tank.
9) step 1-6 may or may not be required about every 10,000 mi dependent on how much oil you burn. This is what my pistons looked like after more than 24,000 miles after doing steps 1-7.

This is what the combustion chambers looked like. If you are wondering, yes I did wipe them out with a dry rag, nothing else.

Thanks again Otakar. Just ordered the plugs and the Lucas. Gonna pick up the MCCC on my way home tonight.

Hi Otakar, I bought the Accel u-groove plugs and the Mopar CCC and the Lucas fueal additive.
I set the new plugs at .045 as you advised but she wouldn't even start.
I then set them back to .035 and she purrs like a kitten.
Do you think my new coils aren't putting out the voltage they ought to?

You must have another problem. I have the exact same ignition arrangement as you and I have my plugs set at .060" and the engine starts on the second turn of the engine. You might have low voltage going TO the coils. Do you use the choke to start the engine? or not. I always use my choke. Are your plug wires solid core or are they Carbon core? Carbon will drop voltage to the plugs A LOT. I talked to a guy the other day who has his plugs set at .080" and he has no problems. This may show that you may have another problem and that your old coils were actually OK. The new coils just raised your coil voltage enough to mask the original problem. You may have a bad battery or just very corroded connectors somewhere. Check your voltage going to your coils. It must show 12V+ both with engine off and running. For every 0.1V below 12V you are loosing about 330V at the output side of the coil. Don't get talked into doing the Weired George coil mod. That is just another Band aid to the real problem.