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Coils
- PLUMMEN
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- 893cv
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The power relays I use trip with as little as 8 volts DC, and the consume very little when activated. My YZF has been modded and now runs 6 active power relays. The power supply path to each of these systems is as short as possable, battery + ,fuse, relay, load, battery -. I use 12 guage primary wire before the load and for the ground I use 10 guage wire (I do combine a few ground paths, thats why I use 10 guage for this). The only load that the OEM harness has to deal with is the tiny load required to trip the relays. Yes, its additionl weight, and its a little more complicated then the OEM system, but it works! My lights are brite, the horn is always loud, the tail and brake light are briter then with the OEM system, it starts better,and batterys last 6 years. And I'm not in my shop every 6 months trying to clean electrical parts.
My design does have its potential problems, like what if a relay goes bad!?! I use the automotive relays that Radio Shack sells, so those are always avalible ( I also carry a spair). The total weight of my mod is less then 3 lbs. and I weigh about 230 lbs. so if I start to worry about the weight my poor YZF has to carry I'll go on a diet long befor I start removing this mod.
1980 kz1000 LTD
1978 Z1R
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- nads.com
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- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- 650ed
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Cool! That's 18 more HP for only $72. I gotta get me some of those relays for my truck.:laugh:
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- enaz1
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75 z1 900 Big Guy
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- 893cv
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- loudhvx
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I guess I just don't get your point OMR, I mean if it makes the bike run better, and it is quick and easy (versus a time consuming and expensive re-wire) why not do it?
I guess what OMR is saying is that it only fixes one symptom of bad wiring. It doesn't address the other problems.
In another post you said you had an O2 sensor system installed, but the charging system didn't have enough power to operate it. Which o2 system do you have? The one I have only needs about 2 amps while it warms up and .7 amps after that. That's certainly not enough that a charging system can't handle it.
Is it possible that there are other wiring issues on the bike? Well that's OMR's point. It really doesn't fix any of the wiring problems on the bike, it just bandaid's the most obvious symptom.
I'm not saying don't use it, just be aware of what the mod is and what it isn't. I'm glad it worked for you and the bike is running good, and I know for most people wiring is the Achilles heel of motorcycle maintenance. But there is still really no substitute for replacing bad wires and connectors and fixing or replacing broken switches and fuse holders. New switches don't cost that much. People spend more money on tires or exhausts than they would on a new ignition switch. The wire itself is practically free, relatively speaking. But I realize it's basically a matter of knowledge, which is why OMR is going through boatloads of trouble and effort to try to explain it in the Electrical theory thread he has going.
From the "I want a Kerker" thread:
hardr0ck68 wrote:
...I still had the sooty plugs, so I used the WG coil mod, ... I installed a wide-band o2 sensor; but the over worked charging system cannot cope with the amp's required to run it properly. Something I will correct with my winter project.
By the way, I didn't mean for this post to get so long, and it's not really meant to be adressed to you, Hardrock. I think most people who have success with the coil mod would like to know why OMR is so vocal about it.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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