Free Bike Givin To Me

Hey MFolks, thanks for the info!

I'm cleaning my BS34 carbs off a 1982 KZ1000P1; I had sprayed some carb cleaner around before I took off the top of the carbs; I then took out the diaphragms and they look fine, but I was concerned some carb cleaner may have got on them so I give them a quick wash with a tiny bit of dish soap and water using my fingers. Everything seems fine, but I'm wondering if I should apply Sil-Glyde lubricating compound to the diaphragms, or if there was some kind of lube/coating on them that I may have washed off. Any troughs?

I believe most Silicone compounds are gas solvent,that is they will dissolve in gasoline.

And the type/grade of gasoline they're selling plays hell with rubber hoses and carb diaphrams.

Good point; Sil-Glyde is silicone based; so you would just leave the diaphragms clean, without putting anything on them? Just seems since I've had them out in the air while cleaning the carbs, they feel a little firmer; maybe just my imagination.

Maybe try this?

Successfully Resurrecting Old Rubber Parts
(Found on the internet)

This subject has been broached before but I am happy to report success in revitalizing old rubber.

I have been using a mixture of 30% wintergreen oil (methyl salicylate) and 70% xylene to restore old rubber parts and it works beautifully. This is the same ingredients and proportions for the commercial product Rubber Renue according to the MSDS sheets.

Wintergreen oil is analgesic and liniment for aching muscles and found in most drugstores, pharmacies, health food stores and co-ops.

I gently heated rock hard honda CB carb boots with a heat gun for 30 seconds and dropped them into mason jars with my solution for 12 hours at room temperature. They come soft, pliable and looking good. They have been out of solution for 48 hours now and are still soft and pliable. I soaked smaller rubber parts such as side panel grommets and there extremely soft and may need to soak for less time

Critics are going to argue 'why not buy new ones?' Well, I am restoring four CB's at the moment and if I can reuse perfectly good parts, why throw them and my money away?

Give it a try and post your results.

MFolks wrote:

Maybe try this?

Successfully Resurrecting Old Rubber Parts
(Found on the internet)

This subject has been broached before but I am happy to report success in revitalizing old rubber.

I have been using a mixture of 30% wintergreen oil (methyl salicylate) and 70% xylene to restore old rubber parts and it works beautifully. This is the same ingredients and proportions for the commercial product Rubber Renue according to the MSDS sheets.

Wintergreen oil is analgesic and liniment for aching muscles and found in most drugstores, pharmacies, health food stores and co-ops.

I gently heated rock hard honda CB carb boots with a heat gun for 30 seconds and dropped them into mason jars with my solution for 12 hours at room temperature. They come soft, pliable and looking good. They have been out of solution for 48 hours now and are still soft and pliable. I soaked smaller rubber parts such as side panel grommets and there extremely soft and may need to soak for less time

Critics are going to argue 'why not buy new ones?' Well, I am restoring four CB's at the moment and if I can reuse perfectly good parts, why throw them and my money away?

Give it a try and post your results.

A friend told me he uses charcoal lighter fluid, it makes rubber soft and like new. He said if he had an engine that wouldnt start from a gummed up carb he poured it in the gas and it would clean out whatever was in there. Never tried it but this guy is not an idiot by any means.

I used the Sil-glyde on the diaphragms; put it all back together, started right up, but the revs hung (had to pull out the choke to return it to idle), and I incorrectly thought it might be the Sil-glyde causing the sliders to stick, so I cleaned the stuff off them (fortunately I can remove the carbs tops & diaphragms with the carbs on the bike, after removing the tank). Put them back on, and same problem, which turned out to be the throttle cable.

Not sure about using lighter fluid; I talked to a few shops and they all said they never put anything on the diaphragms.

While you're lubing stuff, that chirp may be coming from the idler gear. Pull the cover plate beside the starter and it should ride on a post. May not be made like that on a 750, but it sure sounds familiar to the chirp my Voyager was making.

I took an old screw from my BS34 carb float bowl, found a nut that fit it, and brought both to home depot to match them up. Note that I read the philips head screws made in Japan don't fit well with American philips screw drivers; getting out the old Japanese screws took an impact driver for the float bowels, and I used vice-grips for the tops (on the screw heads, it worked).

From Home depot, I picked up 16 5mmX16mm (16 mm is the length) for the float bowls, and for the tops, 14 5mmX10mm (plus 2 more 5mmX16mm for the tops where the throttle cable holder goes). I used pan head philips, zinc-coated steel screws. They were about 75 cents for a package of three. You'll also need 16 new lock washers for the float bowel screws.

Note that you can't use bolt/cap head screws, as there's not enough clearance to tighten them with a wrench. Home depot also had alan cap screws, which I would have rather used, but there were only in steel (I didn't want them rusting).

My carbs were from a 1982 bike, and I didn't need to purchase any parts (aside from new pilot jet plugs, as I discarded the old ones - dumb thing to do by the way); the carbs just needed a cleaning.

Could I put a KZ1000 Carburetor on a on a kz750 bike?Would it affect my engine?What does it mean to trace out jets an ports?

I finally got my Kz750 to turn over but only stays running if I hold the throttle, won't idle any ideas?Were is the idle adjuster located?

Don't know what carbs you have, but often there is a rod with a knob at the end that sticks out between carbs 2 and 3, toward the air box side. You can set the idle there, but may need to adjust the pilot screws as well. If they are fuel mix screws, as found on Keihin carbs toward the engine side (as opposed to air screws on the airbox side)usually they are initially set 2 turns out from lightly seated.

By the way, there was a formula given here for a solvent to soften rubber. Xylene was one ingrediant. Xylene can be extreemly dangerous and effects the central nervous system. If anyone makes this stuff, be extreemly carefull.

Ya Xylene is abundant at my shop(painter)I will give the info you gave me after work today thanks.