Where the heck is the starter clutch?????

Ok, starter is replaced... Oil pan plug finally fixed... Starter now sounds like it is free spinning, It was suggested by members that I fix any worn parts on the starter clutch, looked on Kawasaki website and cant quite figure out where this alleged clutch is located. Any help appreciated

Wow it worked, didnt think I would actually be able to put the diagram up here... Who knew

On the Z1's,Kz900's.Kz1000 and 1100's the starter clutch is located behind the alternator rotor. If your bike is the 750 twin, I believe it's inside the engine cases.

For 750 twin information look here:
www.armbell.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=43&mforum=kz400

If you have the four cylinder bike:
kz.mbsween.com/manual.html

MFolks wrote:

On the Z1's,Kz900's.Kz1000 and 1100's the starter clutch is located behind the alternator rotor. If your bike is the 750 twin, I believe it's inside the engine cases.

The 750 twin starter clutch is right under the flywheel rotor. Don't have to split the cases to get it off..... thank god, they fail frequently on the twins.

the parts down in the right had corner of the parts diagram that aren't circled are the ones you need to be looking at.you will probably need part no 922122 x 3 and pn. 12046 the ringgear on the bearing surface flat spots and the rollers do as well.

According to his signature it must be a 4 as it's got a 4 into 1 pipe which I doubt fits on the twin.
On the four you can either pull the engine or lay on your back for several hours. I'd pull the engine.

You can also drain all the fluids, remove the battery, tank side cover/s etc and lay the bike on it's side on top of a couple of tires.
This makes working from below much esaier:

sorry guys, been busy at work today. It is a 4, need to add that part to my signature. When I started this I had no clue there was a 750 twin, I was an under informed noobie. When I pulled the oilpan I somehow or another managed to wiggle my 220 lb self under the bike just like working on my Jeep. How much time will this take? Is this going to be something that can easily screwed up I am mechanically inclined, but if I am not 100% I can screw it up. Or is this just a good chance to get down into the motor? Another factor with me is shop space, If this requires pulling internal parts that must stay "sterile" i may have an issue because I literally do shade tree work. If it wont be very expensive or is extremely complicated I will pay to have this done.

You will have to remove the oil pan and clutch cover along with the clutch itself (basket and all). The only problem I had when I did one was seating the right side bearing in the case. Kawasaki says to remove the gear off the end of the secondary shaft before reinstallation but I was lazy and left it on. So I used a long slender punch to tap the bearing into place. The factory service manual has a good writeup of the procedure.

Between the info here and on kz650.info I think you'll be able to do it. Allow yourself a few days to do it and buy new gaskets along with the rubber O-rings that fit between the oil pan and the cases.

Trying to figure all this out still, just went for about a 3 hour ride. Cold start was a little tricky. When I did get it running, noticed that the clutch (the transmission not the starter) had no play in it. I adjusted this back to normal. after stopping for fuel, and food, had no problems with starting. Are the clutch and starter clutch somehow tied together??? or was the motor being warm what caused this???

Starting clutch and tranny clutch are not related. The air cooled, carburated engine starter easier because it was warm.

thanks on the info with the 2 not being related, Hopefully tomorrow will be dry and I can tear into it tomorrow. Not a huge fan of having rain water inside the motor, that would lead to way too many new questions on here...