Ignition system on '77 kz650

To measure resistance across the two leads, it does not matter. What matters is that both readings are different when measured the same way on each coil. Well, I also followed the manual. Sad thing is I'm stuck with these $200 coils.

eaglecrash2 wrote:

To measure resistance across the two leads, it does not matter. What matters is that both readings are different when measured the same way on each coil.

Actually, when measuring resistance on the coils primary, at least one end should be disconnected. If the ignition is shorted, it will alter the reading on the coil connected to the short. You always want to eliminate the possibility the resistance being measured is paralled by another resistance. In this case, if the ignition is shorted, then there is a chance that the resistance you measured includes lights and other devices on the bike, depending on the kill switch position etc.

If one coil measured over 3 ohms, and both coils have the same part number, then they are not necessarily CDI coils (not sure if thereis a part number on them). They are just standard Accel super-coils, and are useable with any other ignition you may get (assuming they are good). The common ones would be the Dyna S or Dyna III or a Kaw factory ignition.

Yes, I agreed. Both coils are not installed when I took the readings. I'm still awaiting the arrival of the Dyna S ignition module. I'd replaced the Accel coils with original Kawy coils I bought on e-bay. Oh this is for my kz650. The Dyna is to replace the Martek 440 on my bike which crapped out. You guys are of tremendous help and I can't wait to get this 650 going. I'm learning a lot here and it's fun.

EC2, this is a diagram of how I wired my '77 KZ650-B1. Hope you find it useful.



You will notice the Relay K1... this is how I installed the WG Coil Repowering mod. IMHO, this is a must for bikes with 30 year old + wiring and contacts. This was the best bang for the buck on performance and reliability increase... and at about $10 USD in material it's a steal.

Best of success.

PS
Could you add your year, model and location to your signature. It will help get the best responses, meet locals and it's considered very friendly too.
Bill

EC2, this is what it should look like installed.



Best of success.

EC2, this is how the Dyna S cable can be connected to the existing wireing.



Best of success.

Thanks Bill for all the details and pics. My dyna S will be here next Tues and hope to be able to jump into the project and finish it. My son and I can't wait to go cruising. Added my signature stuffs like you suggested. Didn't pay much attention before.

Oh another malfunction on the kawi is that none of the instrument back lighting works on both indicators. All bulbs checked out okay. Ground looks okay. Haven't put a meter on it yet though. Anything else I should be checking? All other lights, turn signal, etc work just fine.

EC2, all indicator lights (Neutral, High Beam, Oil Pressure and Break Light Failure) are powered from the Brown circuit. Both Turn Signal Indicator light are powered from the Gray circuit.

The Speedometer and Tachometer back lights are powered from the Blue circuit. The Blue circuit comes from the Blue/Red circuit, from the Ignition switch, from the 10 Amp Tail circuit fuse from the Brown/White circuit, from the Brown circuit, from the Ignition switch, from the White circuit, from the 20 Amp Main fuse, from Red/White circuit, from the Red circuit and from the Battery (+) terminal. See your Shop or Repair manual for a clearer picture... you have a manual right?

If your Tail light comes on, the problem is only in your Blue circuit. Troubleshoot the connector in the Head Light housing, the Blue wiring and connectors and the Ground continuity to the back lights.

If your Tail light does not come no, the problem is in the Ignition switch connector and or the Ignition switch and or the 10 Amp Tail fuse or fuse holder clips. Repair, replace and or clean.

Best of success.

Okay thanks a bunch. Yes tail light works. Actually, all electrical system works except for the indicator back-lit lights. I do have a manual and i'll check the blue circuit first.

Bill, need your help here. I installed the dyna s on the 650. Timed it per the instructions. Ran fine, rode it for a good 10 miles and on the way home it stalled. It idles very rough and have to maintain at least 2000rpm to keep engine from stalling. The bike performed flawlessly at fwy speed. Below 2000rpm i feel a lack of power plus it sputters a little.

Did you by chance use the "blue" connecter thay gave you? If you did that's your problem, same thing happened to me. Was dropping cylinders. Remove the connecter and solder that connection. Problem solved for me since then. Bike starts soooo much quicker with the Dyna. Love it!

Yes, I used the blue connector. Now where do you solder new connection?