WG coil wiring mod blowing out regulators?

The resistance readings that you posted are typical of a failing switch. I have had some success with pulling switches apart and cleaning contacts to restore proper operation. I have also had catastrophic failures doing this, and by catastrophic I mean I just ruined the switch beyond all repair. I have never taken apart the switch that you mentioned. The WG Coil mod that you refer to in the title of this post is simply putting a good switch between your battery and the coils. The resistance of your bad switch will cause a voltage drop, and heat, and poor spark performance. You said that you only have "10.4 at the connector going to the coils" This suggest that either the coil mod is done incorrectly or the relay switch contacts or connections are also faulty. I did the coil mod on my bike and the results were
.........before mod...before mod...after mod
.........at battery...at coil.....at coil
Key off,,,12.82,,,,,,,,0,,,,,,,,,,,0
Key on,,,,12.45,,,,,,,,10.48,,,,,,,12.23
ideling,,,,12.59,,,,,,,11.00,,,,,,,12.47
rev,to,4k,,13.75,,,,,,,12.53,,,,,,,13.75

Your original post "Have been unable to get the bike to charge at more than 12.4 volts at idle, and 13.5 at 4000 rpm. The Clymer manual calls for 13.5 volts at idle, 14.5 at 4000 rpm."

I did not know that I was supposed to have 13.5 volts at idle and 14.5 at 4000 rpm. This statement is not a whack at you, truely, I did not know. As you can see from my tests My voltages are quite similar to yours. I don't have any charging issues that I know of. My bike is the 1980 kz650 so it is likely the same wiring as yours. I typically ride about 5 to 10 miles and shut it down. No problems with the battery.

I don't believe that a properly done WG coil mod can blow out your regulator because in essence it is just a switch replacing a switch.

Good luck with your problem. Hope this helped.

I got a clymer manual just last week an now that I've pondered that my voltage readings are like yours, I decided to read some of the manual.

Page 151 step 4 on testing charging system 1978 and later. Voltage should be about 14.5. If higher than 16 the regulator/rectifier is defective. If less than specified, check alternator output.

Step 8 at 4000rpm voltage should be about 75 volts AC on the yellow leads from the alternator. If less, go to alternator stator testing.

Page 154 Note: if the stator winding resistance is within the specified range, but the voltage output is incorrect, the rotor has probably lost some if its magnetism.

Alternator rotor testing.
The rotor is permanently magnatizeed and cannot be tested escept by replacement with a rotor known to be good. A rotor can loose magnatism from OLD AGE or a sharp blow. If defective, the rotor must be replaced: it cannot be remagnetized.

It's too late for me to go diggin into my bike tonight but Dude, I thinks I have an old rotor. I'm not going to worry about mine. Best of luck with yours.

I've had a problem with the horn working/not working intermittently, and i want a headlight switch, which mine doesn't have, so I have no problem replacing that switch. Z1 enterprises has new Z1 handlebar switches, but I assume they're not a direct replacement. They're out of stock, anyway.

Does anyone know where I can get new handlebar switches for a KZ650? If not direct-fit, then what's the best way to go?

yep that was the procedure i was following, resulting actions were, replaced stator with one off parts bike, little change. then replaced rotor from same bike. (hey it was parts i had available). improvement on alternator output. getting 75 -76 vac now.

guess i was not clear, again. my bad. the circuit that would normally feed power to the coils. is where i got the 10.4 from, agreed with it connected to the relay for the wg mod, pretty much makes the voltage there unimportant. as long as it is energizing the relay to provide full voltage thru the relay to the coils. which we are getting.

my whole question on this line was if there was even a remote possibilty that it could be the reason regulators were failing. i dont think it is. im kinda in agreement with steell. that it was just coincidence. since have been dealing with "used" regulators. but im not ruling out seans concern of something causing the failures. just trying to cover all bases.

seanof30306 wrote:

I've had a problem with the horn working/not working intermittently, and i want a headlight switch, which mine doesn't have, so I have no problem replacing that switch. Z1 enterprises has new Z1 handlebar switches, but I assume they're not a direct replacement. They're out of stock, anyway.

Does anyone know where I can get new handlebar switches for a KZ650? If not direct-fit, then what's the best way to go?

Check this place out for new switches. They are not OEM Stock, but aftermarket.

www.cyclewareables.com/pages/vintage_han...handlebar_switch.htm

seanof30306 wrote:

I've had a problem with the horn working/not working intermittently, and i want a headlight switch, which mine doesn't have, so I have no problem replacing that switch. Z1 enterprises has new Z1 handlebar switches, but I assume they're not a direct replacement. They're out of stock, anyway.

Does anyone know where I can get new handlebar switches for a KZ650? If not direct-fit, then what's the best way to go?

Check this place out for new switches. They are not OEM Stock, but aftermarket.

I had a sudden urge to quote somebody and make line by line comments but was able to subdue the urge bwhahahaha Elliot you old grouch... no one can possibly type all that stuff, much less read it hehe

As far as the kill switch... somebody made comments about the high resistance and then mentioned they had never taken one apart. I have. Here is why they fail. there are contacts that allow electricity to pass. These get oxidized. The main problem isn't the contacts in this case but the detent system. On a new switch, you will feel the switch click into position. This is because there is a spring loaded BB that rides in a channel in the bottom of the switch. There are some depressions in the switch and when the BB gets to one at the end of switch travel, it CLICKS into place. Problem is, the plastic channel on the bottom wears to the BB doesn't click anymore after awhile and the contacts get farther from each other as a result. The fix is to shim the upper part... there is a plastic finger in the middle where the whole thing pivots... use a wave washer under the plastic finger and it restores some of the tension lost by the deeper and worn channel. I am saying this from memory but the switch function can be restored. On my carb test bike, the switch had gotten so sloppy, the bike would shut off as the switch would move in a headwind. While the details of the fix are a bit foggy in my old brain, the fix should be fairly obvious once you take the switch apart. I think with better contact there won't be as much resistance either. While this won't make a lot of difference if you do our coil repowering mod, you will still get a more positive voltage to trigger the starter relay so there is some benefit to making sure your kill switch is up to snuff.

OKC_Kent wrote:

seanof30306 wrote:

I've had a problem with the horn working/not working intermittently, and i want a headlight switch, which mine doesn't have, so I have no problem replacing that switch. Z1 enterprises has new Z1 handlebar switches, but I assume they're not a direct replacement. They're out of stock, anyway.

Does anyone know where I can get new handlebar switches for a KZ650? If not direct-fit, then what's the best way to go?

Check this place out for new switches. They are not OEM Stock, but aftermarket.

Dude, thanks for the link. Actually, about halfway down the page, they do have OEM switches for Z!/KZ900A4, and KZ900B1. They look like the same ones Z1 Enterprises sells, but they're a bit more expensive. Since Z1 Enterprises is currently out of the right-side switch, though, that's an excellent source.

wiredgeorge wrote:

I have a 79 KZ1000E1 ST as well and installed a KuryAkyn voltage gauge. You can see this gauge on the US eBay; plug in auction # 350095734514 - This gauge gives you an easy to read indication of how the charging system is working.

WG,

My gauge arrived today. Where did you mount yours? I was thinking of the master cylinder, but wonder if proximity to the brake fluid might cause problems with the sticky tape.

I have a ST which has a cover over the ignition switch. The bolts on the cover hold the handlebar clamps. I used one of those bolts. The angle that the little gauge sits at makes it easy to see. I still am not real confident about soaking the gauge at a car wash and take a plastic bag with me when I wash the bike.

wiredgeorge wrote:

I have a ST which has a cover over the ignition switch. The bolts on the cover hold the handlebar clamps. I used one of those bolts. The angle that the little gauge sits at makes it easy to see. I still am not real confident about soaking the gauge at a car wash and take a plastic bag with me when I wash the bike.

I'm sorry, but what's a "ST"?