Slide Biblically Stuck In CV Carb & Will Not Move

Don't get flustered, unless You actually live in Oakland, at that point I can see why, ha. All the forwarded info was merely to HELP, not to dismay you from those critters working again. But, take it as You may, "blown-out" is Perfect for jetting but ya won't know till you fill with fuel if the Tee/Connector tube rubbers are still intact. Rubber goes South and hardens/shrinks and splits. I do this all day, and not just little bikes.  

Here's an example as to what everyone is talking/referring to. Because i always save disgruntled components i replace, take note. The same bits that were pulled from those previous shown CBX 1000 carbs. All hardened/shrunk/brittle, nothing usable. Make sense?? It, around here, is peat, repeat. Soo many carbs soo little time, he.

The 1982 GPz550 carbs use 4 O-rings on the fuel inlet Tee and also on the (two) fuel transfer tubes (for a total of 12 on these parts alone).  These O-rings are exposed to the outside air and UV light and are sure to be hard as a rock.  While I do have O-ring kits for Mikuni and Keihin carbs, I don't have them for the TK family of carbs.  Well, I may have some, but I haven't verified the proper sizes.  Kawasaki still sells most of these parts, though.

BTW, maybe just the photo, but a jet-needle looks to be missing?

 

Nessism, to be correct, not the jet-needle is missing, the needle jet is missing = the brass bleeder part that holding the main jet.

Chopper 1963, our advice here is intended to help you, maybe to  avoid things others may have run into.  My comment on separating was more of a general observation, not meant to be taken personally.
I drained some carbs in the 90's when putting a bike in storage, turns out rubber o rings and seals (including the o rings on the fuel tees between carbs) were crusty and dry.  But it was still a good idea because the insides weren't full of old fuel sludge, and cleaned up quicker in the ultrasonic.  So you saved yourself some work by draining years ago.