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Rolf1976_KZ900 wrote:

Scirocco wrote:

I would do a static referenz sync first. Adjust the idle positon high of the sliders to fit a 3 mm drill in all carbs from the cab outlet side.
Turn the oulet of the carb rack into the 6 o´clock position. Then adjust the sync screws until all drill bits fall out at the same slider positon.
For butterfly carbs i use a 0,10 mm feeler gauge the set static sync.



 

I did also use feeler gauge blade when rebulit the carbs this winter.I did not do anything to the settings i just checked with feelerblade before i teared them down and checked after rebuild.The strange thing is what i found today the adjusting screw on carb 3 was not same height as the other 3 carbs. not sure what has happend.=)

You can change"sync" the screw high by loosen the opposite screw.

Rolf1976_KZ900 wrote:

Today i did a new attemt to get the carbs syncronized.  Today i had more tools .First checked if there was any airleak at the rubber boots on both sides of the carbs sprayed with starter fluid around the boots.No difference in idle speed so that was good no leaks. Then checked the compression to se if valves are okay.
The engine has now run about 450 miles since rebuild so it is finished run in  and rings are seated. The compression was good cyl 1 has 160 psi cyl 2 3 4 has 150 psi hot engine.
Then removed the lids on the carbs .Last time i did not remove lid on cyl 2 and 3 because i did not have a long enough screwdriwer and i desided to quit because i found it was not possible to adjust the cyl 1 carb because the adjusting screw was out of range.I mean it was not possible to tighten / lock the nut and even if it had beed able to lock the adjuster  it was still to much vacuum when screw was fully out.

Today when i took off the lids on 2 and 3 carbs i could see that the adjuster screw on carb 3 was alot deeper screwed inward.So i losend all  4 screws all way out and put them with the locknut about same height so i could have more range to adjust and get them locked.
The motion pro tool "worked" better now exept that one of the straws was not working . so after synch the cyl 1 2 and 4 .i put on the rubberboot on the vacuumport on 4 and moved the hose to cyl 3 and adjusted the screws so all 4 carbs draw same vacuum. did many adjustments on the idle screw as well
the idle screw has to be unscrewed to get the carb 3 lid off but that is easy and just put the idle screw back in again when synching. Then did a short ride and the vibration around 2700rpm is gone and engine feels smooth,but now the engine bogged/burped a little when opening throttle fast so will have to adjust more on the mixture screws again and again and again .This green lady  really want things her way haha.

Sounds like kidding you but before you can use your sync tool, you have to sync your sync tool with the damper valves !!!

 
 
 

and for the cheap chinese knock-off clock´s buyer without a damper valve:
i introduce you the poor mans uganda style damper valve

 

First I calibrated the tool with the 4 screws in the bottom like in this how to use the tool  watch from 5 minutes

My tool is broken nr 3 straw is leaking but that is just to move the hose from 4 to 3 after synch 1 2 4 .
The tool has some small metal restrictors in the tubes like in the video but that was not enough to stop the vacuum pulling fluid out so i used airvalves to restrict the airflow more. I think nr 3 carb has the throttle bracket mounted and since the adjusterscrew on that carb was turned so far in the other carbs Nr1 2   was impossible to lock the adjuster or get the vacuum lower .it was if i turned screw out so it is hanging in the air the vacuum was still to high.i looked more at the throttle bracket and there is a screw on the backside there and if that had been turned i think the guy that mounted the bracket could have fixed it that way.The screw is not possible to turn when carbs mounted  i think Anyway after turning all adjusterscrews fully out and set the locknuts higher on the treads so all slides was shut it was possible to synchcronize them

Not totally required but super handy in setting the slide lifters. It's a Motion Pro #MP08-0022. You might want to shake out all those separations of fluid in the tubes. Didn't watch video provided but you should turn all the slotted grub screws CCW initially.  

When I bench sync the carbs I take the tops off and use a vernier to measure the height of the slides, first i turn idle screw to raise slides off bottom, i then move the adjuster screws to mid point of thier travel range, then use the vernier to get the slides on to equal heights. 

asphalt900 wrote:

Not totally required but super handy in setting the slide lifters. It's a Motion Pro #MP08-0022. You might want to shake out all those separations of fluid in the tubes. Didn't watch video provided but you should turn all the slotted grub screws CCW initially.  

 

I have messed with the "carbtool" many times .I refilled it several times and it is a frustrating prosess by unscrewing the 16 i think it is screws on the back then take out the 4 screws for refilling the tubes and use a syringe to fill the same amount of drops into the tubes=). The fluid vaporize when it not used for a while.One of the tubes is damaged because of a bad O-ring on the screw.But it works in a way =) a good quicksilver or clocks is better.

kevski wrote:

When I bench sync the carbs I take the tops off and use a vernier to measure the height of the slides, first i turn idle screw to raise slides off bottom, i then move the adjuster screws to mid point of thier travel range, then use the vernier to get the slides on to equal heights. 
 

Thanks then i learned something today will test that next time if needed