Today i did a new attemt to get the carbs syncronized. Today i had more tools .First checked if there was any airleak at the rubber boots on both sides of the carbs sprayed with starter fluid around the boots.No difference in idle speed so that was good no leaks. Then checked the compression to se if valves are okay.
The engine has now run about 450 miles since rebuild so it is finished run in and rings are seated. The compression was good cyl 1 has 160 psi cyl 2 3 4 has 150 psi hot engine.
Then removed the lids on the carbs .Last time i did not remove lid on cyl 2 and 3 because i did not have a long enough screwdriwer and i desided to quit because i found it was not possible to adjust the cyl 1 carb because the adjusting screw was out of range.I mean it was not possible to tighten / lock the nut and even if it had beed able to lock the adjuster it was still to much vacuum when screw was fully out.
Today when i took off the lids on 2 and 3 carbs i could see that the adjuster screw on carb 3 was alot deeper screwed inward.So i losend all 4 screws all way out and put them with the locknut about same height so i could have more range to adjust and get them locked.
The motion pro tool "worked" better now exept that one of the straws was not working . so after synch the cyl 1 2 and 4 .i put on the rubberboot on the vacuumport on 4 and moved the hose to cyl 3 and adjusted the screws so all 4 carbs draw same vacuum. did many adjustments on the idle screw as well
the idle screw has to be unscrewed to get the carb 3 lid off but that is easy and just put the idle screw back in again when synching. Then did a short ride and the vibration around 2700rpm is gone and engine feels smooth,but now the engine bogged/burped a little when opening throttle fast so will have to adjust more on the mixture screws again and again and again .This green lady really want things her way haha.