TOPIC:

The master bore tends to corrode and pit, and when that happens the master can't be rebuilt.  With my 750 I bought several before finding a decent one from a friends stash.  I've seen where guys take a newer master and adapt it for use.  It wasn't hard, just have to figure out a mounting method.

BTW, if you find a master with a clean bore you can get a new plunger brand new from Kawasaki.  Buy at your favorite dealership source.

I think these folks can re-sleeve the master cylinder, but I suggest you call them and describe the issue to see if they can do it.  Ed

www.karpspb.com/sleeving.htm

Hi.
nice bike and nice price. Short answer is yes. If you swap out the air box and fix pods, you increase the airflow, which means the amount of fuel delivered by the jets may be too little, leading to a lean running engine. If you buy pods, don’t buy cheap shot. Buy decent stuff from k&n etc. However, before looking at pods, why not replace the rubber boots (K1 enterprises). As for the plastic screw top filter holder, repair it with glue if you can or also look for a replacement. The CV carbs on these bikes are a pain in the ass to fiddle with, which you will be doing once you go down the pod route. 

Why do you say the carbs are a PITA? They seem pretty simple. I’ve got them completely apart right now for cleaning and they don’t seem to be that much of an issue

kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/kz750E1&H1.pdf good luck

kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/kz750E1&H1.pdf good luck

You misunderstand my point. Taking the carbs apart is easy. But when you change the stock air box, you have automatically changed the fuel air mix through the entire range. You will need to fix the idle circuit which means replacing idle jets and fuel air screws on each carb. Then you need to deal with the midrange which will be emulsion tubes, needle jets and jet needles. On the Keihin CV carbs, the needles are fixed, do you either replace them or shim them. Then top end will be the main jets. To do all this right you will need lots of spark plugs and will be removing the carbs regularly to do what you need to do. So yes, all in all, when changing stock air box for air pods, you will find that tinkering with the carbs, although simple in operation, will be a PITA.

Ahh I understand. I decided to go with the factory air box. I’ll just have to plastic weld the top back on until I get the replacement. I should be done rebuilding the carbs soon so I’ll get to test fire the engine. One question I have for you all, does anyone have a vacuum diagram for the barbs underneath the carb? I apologize, the previous owners took it off and I believe discarded it. Airbox boots have been purchased so now we wait.

If you are asking about the bowl vents, they need to be left open to atmosphere. They usually have hoses attached that drape over the frame cross member just in front of the swing arm pivot.

Do you have a picture of what it is supposed to look like?

Sorry, I do not have any pictures. There are a couple of decent shots in the factory service manual, but sadly the pdf copy here at KZR is a bit low res, and the pictures are hard to see. If your bike has the Keihin CV 34 carbs, I believe they have an overflow nipple on the very bottom of each bowl. These must be left open to atmosphere and it would be best to have hoses attached to them that drape over the trans and dump in front of the swingarm pivot. Hopefully one if the 750 folk will be along soon with some pictures.
In the mean time, I suggest taking a look at the carburetor sections in the fsm to get a better idea of what the various nipples do and to get a handle on the correct names for each. I think the main section starts at around page 150. Using a common nomenclature makes long distance diagnosis and recommendations easier.

This is the best picture I could find during a quick search.