Good morning all, first post here. I picked up a new to me 1981 KZ750H LTD for $650. Needs a lot of work but nothing I can’t handle. Upon taking it apart to clean the air box out I noticed that 2 of the air box to carburetor boots had holes in them and the filter top cover was broken. Upon some investigation into some more expensive parts, I came across the pod filters. If I install these do I need to change the jetting in the carb?
Welcome to KZR
I fixed your picture to be full size
Next time click the insert all tab
Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn
The following user(s) said Thank You: Nessism, Elfarm98648
Any pod filters worth using will be at least the cost of fixing your airbox situation; they'll also have some drawbacks. Jetting would need altering (maybe new jets, maybe just adjusting pilot screws), your idle will be rougher, you may lose lower-end power, you'll have issues on rainy days, and crosswinds may lean out your mixture.
They do have some upsides, such as ease of installation over the airbox boots and a possibly a bit more top-end power, but my personal recommendation is new airbox boots and fix/replace the top cover.
I think I have an airbox top, but it'll be a few days until I can check/retrieve it...if you don't mind waiting it's yours.
They're not OEM but they'll be a bit more recently manufactured.
Keep everything stock standard ... least hassle, most ride-able, most reliable.
I'm in the process of putting the air-box back on my '81 GPZ550 D1
I'm done trying to get perfect mixture through the full rev range. It's good at low rpm, good above 6500... but splutters between 5500 and 6500, where it should be sweet! (highway speed 120 km/h)
I've had the carbs off at least 25 times.
I've even drilled jets ½ size up, shimmed needles with 0.25mm thick washers to get in-between needle clip postions... even tried partially restricting flow by taping closed sections of the pods with duct tabe!
I think Kawasaki engineers arrived at the best overall ballance of drive-ability / fuel economy.
Thank you all for the replies. I decided to take your suggestions and fix the stock air box. I would love to get that air box cover from you. Just PM me and I’ll send you my address. Thank you for the compliments on the bike as well. Many many parts coming in soon. Not soon enough though. I do have some wiring issues I hope you all can help me with.
For my wiring issues, it was all done by the previous owners. They dropped the bike and broke the upper triple tree, gauges clean off, headlight off, bent the handlebars, pushed one exhaust pipe into an oval and dented the tank. Other than that it’s in really good shape. Now my issues arise with my not knowing what the wires run to. I know how to use a multimeter and know how to read a wiring diagram so it shouldn’t be hard. I just want to take it back to factory instead of all of the crappy splices and cut wires you see here. All of the plugs are accounted for and should be gauge cluster and ignition key. Does anyone have a picture of what they are supposed to look like. And a diagram to go with it? Thank you for the help you have provided so far.
Airbox cap. when you go to install the replacement, don't over-tighten it. The manual says to install the cap until you hear a click, but if it doesn't click any more, you could overdo it & it'll crack. don't ask how I know. hee. I tighten it until I feel the cap contact the air filter, then snug it up to compress the filter end foam.
I wasn’t sure where to post brake questions so I figured I’d throw it out here. I’m rebuilding the whole break system as well and I was curious as to if anyone has a good replacement rear master cylinder or a quality rebuild kit? I’m powder coating all calipers and mounts, new seal kit in all of them, all new stainless steel brake lines and fittings, new front master cylinder.