Carb cleaning on bike

so got a few questions. I picked up a 1981 550ltd. Starts and runs fine. But while riding is starts leaking gas from the overflow lines from the carbs. Not much just a few drips here and there, but when I park it after about 20-30 minutes it starts leaking g bad from the overflows and backing up into the air box. Everywhere I check says either petcock or stuck float valve. My question is cas I clean the carbs on the bike. And second if it is the petcock can I put an in-line shutoff valve on until I get a rebuild kit or new petcock.

You have 2 different problems. One problem is the petcock. Assuming it is the stock automatic petcock it should stop the flow of fuel when the engine is shut off. So that needs to be corrected either by rebuilding the petcock or by replacing it. The other problem is the carbs. The floats in the carbs should stop the flow of fuel when the correct fuel level is reached. Either the fuel float level in the carbs is set way too high or the carbs are not shutting off the flow when the correct level is reached because there's an problem with the needle valves or their seats. In either case you need to correct the problem.

You can install an inline shutoff valve until you correct the petcock problem and that will stop the flow of fuel when the engine is shut off if you manually turn that valve to the off position, but the carb problem will still be a problem whenever that shutoff valve is turned to the on position. So the bottom line is you need to correct both problems. Ed

In addition to what Ed said, the leaking from the drains could be the internal standpipe in the float bowl. Occasionally they will get a crack and leak.

Another possibility on the TK22 carbs you have, are the bowl drain screws. They act like little valves which allow for the draining of gas, and for using the drain line to check fuel level. There are two orings on each drain screw. Make sure they are good and everything is clean. Those screws do not need to be tight to seal and should never be cranked tight. If they don't seal by being snug, an oring is probably bad.

The petcock can be very easily tested by simply pulling off the fuel line and seeing if it drips. After several minutes it should stop dripping and completely.

In my signature there is a link to a Tk22 carb website and a bunch of online manuals. Also, make sure to read the valve train warning.

so I'm fairly sure the petcock is stock. It is leaking. I had the gas lines off of the tank a few days ago and fuel was flowing, so its not shutting off like it should. When it comes to cleaning the carbs and checking everything can that be done on the bike? And if not do I have to worry about getting the carbs out of sync when I pull them off. And how does one set the fuel level for the carbs? Sorry for all the questions. Kinda new to all this thanks for the help and info

fuzz0912 wrote: so I'm fairly sure the petcock is stock. It is leaking. I had the gas lines off of the tank a few days ago and fuel was flowing, so its not shutting off like it should.

If the lever is in the "pri" prime position gas will flow. Make sure it's set to "on" or "res".

fuzz0912 wrote: When it comes to cleaning the carbs and checking everything can that be done on the bike?

Not really, at all.

fuzz0912 wrote: And if not do I have to worry about getting the carbs out of sync when I pull them off.

Yes. they will get slightly out of sync, but nothing major. The bike will still run ok afterward, but just a little rough maybe. You will have to sync them to restore smooth idle.

You don't need to ungang them to just clean out the bowls and check the jets. But don't soak them in anything unless you plan totally separate and disassemble them. It's often not needed and will cause more problems that it will solve. Some of the seals for the shafts are not available. You just probably need to replace the fuel valves and pull the jets and clean them using guitar strings as pokers. You don't really need to do anything with the throttle slides or needles as long as they look good and feel smooth. A drop of oil on the moving parts might help. The choke plates need inspecting for sure, to make sure the flaps are intact. The website shows what to look for.

The hardest part will be putting them back on. It will be the opposite of pulling them.

Pulling them is also hard. Read the manual on which screws to loosen to make the airbox move backward. It only moves backward slightly, but that will make a difference. Remove the throttle cables. Remove the hose clamps or at least make them so loose that the screws are almost not attached. The boots have to expand very far to release the carbs. Roll-off the airbox spring clamps. They can stay on the boots. Sit on the bike on a center stand and put your feet on the engine castings and pull the carbs back hard into the airbox until the carb outlets can be nosed out of the engine carb mounts. Then wiggle them out over the boots which will release them from the airbox boots.

fuzz0912 wrote: And how does one set the fuel level for the carbs?

There is a website for your carbs. The maintenance page will show how to set them dry, but you should read the manuals on how to set them using a site tube.

Well I know what I'm going to be doing the next few days lol. Seriously though thank yall for the info. I still got about a week until I can get tags on it and right now the bike is about 95% little minor things minus the leaking issue. But really for sitting in a garage for the past few years and its overall age It could be in a lot worse shape. Day one put a new batter in it cleaned gas tank and it started right up. So even though it's having a few problems its all good. Don't think it was a bad buy

I have cleaned the needle valves on my KZ650 without removing the carbs, so you may be able to do that if that is ALL that must be done. However, if you need to clean the entire carbs you will probably need to remove them from the engine to do it correctly. In either case do not mix parts between carbs as things tend to wear together. Ed

Good advice.. im gonna start this adventure first thing in the morning.

So this morning I took the bowls off the carbs. Removed all the floats pins and needle valves, keeping all parts with the carb they came out of. None of the floats were stuck and all of the needle valves were in good shape. I sprayed everything out. According to the link you guys gave me when adjusting the float level from what i understand, was to bring the float up to the pin and adjust from that point. After tweeking 3 of the float levels in the #1 #3 #4 carb it dried up the leaking mostly. It still drips but nothing like it was. I guess I'll have to take them back off and tweak some more but 2 of the carbs seem to be right where they aren't leaking now. I just worry about making it to lean because I'm more or less learning as I go

Ok yall so I just got a petcock rebuild kit in today put it in and its still leaking from the overflow lines. Like I said before all this is new and carbs are kinda voodoo to me. I took all the bowls off none of the floats were stuck everything looked in ok shape. Another member mentioned to check the fuel level inside the carbs with the clear tube test. My question on that is. Is it normal to have to set this every so often. And what is the process to do this. Everything I've seen kinda glazes over it and doesn't really go into detail about how exactly to set the fuel levels. Thanks for any help

Fuzz0912: I am not familiar with your specific bike, but the clear tube method is taking a clear tube (duh) and screwing it into the float bowl drain screw. Add gas to that carb and by holding the clear flexible tube next to the float bowl you will see where the fuel level is in the bowl. If you have a service manual this process should be detailed in it. Not as easy as it may sound especially when you have to keep taking the bowl off to readjust the level, but it's the only game in town for this unless you have a clear float bowl laying around. Others with your type of bike may chime in. Oh, and be careful with the gasoline when doing this.

Rick H.

Maybe a picture will help.....



Ed