It depends on what you are mainly concerned with. If fuel economy is an important concern, then very careful needle shimming is usually a must. If not, then there are other formulas that will work pretty well. For best running overall, under the widest range of temperatures, you will want to run a bit richer than you would for maximum power. For that, you can leave the needle alone and compensate with richer jets.
These 3 types of jets all use the convention of the size being hundredths of mm for the orifice diameter, but the jets are constructed differently so the same numbers don't necessarily flow the same, though I found they were not extremely different.
Will update when the pipes come in. The keihin jets look to flow the best based on the charts, will probably get a set of those if I need to up a jet size or two.
sidenote: I've been seeing a lot of threads about block off plates for the smog hoses, is this something done to prevent exhaust popping when eliminating the airbox?
Something I have to do too? or because i'm keeping the airbox I can disregard this?
Pipe came in, very excited. or course it came with exhaust gaskets after I bought some. (also torque specs came with it)
There are these 8 half circle pieces I'm confused about. they aren't mentioned in the installation directions, but they are listed in the part page that comes with it. my Japanese is not the best but I think they are "control collars"? anyone know what these are for?
edit: O these go on the headers and under the clamp things to hold the headers on don't they...
anyone know how I'm supposed to get a torque wrench in there to work? I can only reach the outer nuts on 1 and 4....
Also here's a picture of a bee that somehow got trapped on my old headers lol poor bee
It´s not a bee it´s a wasp. Your M6 nuts should only torque by hand (tangible) (10 Nm) and a used Header gasket will never seal again like a new one.