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KZ305 carbs won't sync right, pilot screws do nothing
- Legionnaire1856
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This was my first bike 16 years ago and I've had bikes come and go, but I'm back to trying to get her back on the road and running perfect.
Now, I've run through most everything on this bike and replaced many, many parts. But I've cleaned and adjusted the carb, replaced float valves, pilot screw seals, new Dyna coils, plugs and wires, new carb holders, all kinds of stuff.
It starts and idles perfect, but I can't get the carbs to sync right. They're close, but no matter how much I turn the screw I can't get the last little bit. One carb won't quite come down to match the other...its within 5 points on my carbtune.
Also when I turn the pilot adjustment screws, nothing changes. I have racked my brain and I just can't think of anything I'm missing. I can turn the sync screw over and over and it doesn't bring the level down to match. And it runs pretty darn good, honestly. Any thoughts?
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- Legionnaire1856
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- Nessism
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- Legionnaire1856
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I'm not sure what I need to plug up when I do the sync...the vacuum ports have the plugs from the sync tool in them with rubber O-rings, and I've messed with them by slightly screwing and unscrewing them while attempting the sync and I got nothing different.
Could the NOS carb holders I bought be letting outside air in? No I didn't do a bench sync...
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- Warren3200gt
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When you say you cant get them to sync, whats the issue, are you running out of adjustment?
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- 650ed
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Warren3200gt wrote: NOS carb to head rubbers will be air tight, if they are leaking its more likely to be at the joint to the head or they are not sealing around the carb. With the bike idling spray some carb cleaner around the rubber and see if you get a change in revs. No change will mean no leak. Bogging down will mean a big leak as it sucks in too much cleaner (fuel). Speeding up will mean a small leak as it sucks in enough to correct the mixture. Either way a change in revs will indicate a leak that requires correction.
...........
This is THE best way to check the carb holders for leaks. One other thing I would add - make sure the idle speed is set to very low rpm when doing the test. This is how I found carb holder leaks on my KZ650. The holders were leaking so badly that spraying carb cleaner around the carb holders actually stopped the engine from running. Replaced the holders and erratic idle problem was fixed. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- martin_csr
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The 305 airbox is kind of similar to the 440-Ltd >> the 440 airbox is different but the cap can be installed wrong, causing an air leak.
On the 440 the test is to gently pull up on the back of the cap >> if it moves, it's installed wrong.
Edit: airbox cap >> the air filter fits inside the box-like cap >> see diagrams at Partzilla.
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- Legionnaire1856
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I can crank the crap out of the screw and they won't even out, I mean I can turn it 360 degrees, and then 360 degrees again in the same direction and nothing will happen.
So if there is a leak around the carb holders, what do you recommend?
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- Legionnaire1856
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- Warren3200gt
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If it the carbs not sealing in the rubbers, ensure the clips are TIGHT , even it it means using jubilee clips instead of khi clips. Remember the khi clips are 40 years old and likely are sloppy and stretched.
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- SWest
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Steve
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