TOPIC:

Hey, y'all, tried rejetting, it improved but still running rich. Thninking emulsion tubes? And cannot find them to buy/replace to save my life. Ideas on why running rich? All 4 carbs running rich? At exactly the same time? Really?
And any treasure map to oem emulsion tubes or compatible appreciated?
Yeah yeah, checked the air filter so anything else?
MechanicsWife2013

Is the bike stock or modified? Did you rebuild the carbs and if so, did you use OEM jets? Did you check the fuel level using the clear tube like the factory service manual specifies?

It's not the emulsion tubes. Educate yourself on the carb circuits, idle circuit, off idle circuit, midrange and wide open, find which circuit is running rich then adjust it.

Stock but for kerker 4 into 1 exhaust and K&N air filter checked fuel level w clear tubes, all set to spec.

Not responding to a person telling me to "educate" myself because if i was a child, id need a lecture on learning bloody carb circuits. Well done, helpful man.

Sigh. Another forum with men who want to talk down to a woman mechanic.

I'm sure it doesn't have anything to do with gender. Jetting can be very tricky and time consuming. Also a common mistake is going to the carbs before making sure the valve adjustments are within spec as well as other tune up procedures. The carbs are the last thing to tune.
Steve

Yeah yeah
Did all that. Within spec, barely a couple hundred miles since tune up.

Pics of the plugs?
Steve

Plugs too cool?

Wow, I wasn't being a smartass and had no idea you are a woman, can't see you afterall, and your assuming I'm a man.
Learning the carb curcuits is the best way to tune a carb. Since you were talking about changing the emulsion tubes it was obvious at least to me you are not familiar with these carbs. I was giving you the best advice for what I thought was a new bike mechanic. Apparently I was wrong. Sorry for trying to help

MechanicsWife2013 wrote: Hey, y'all, tried rejetting, it improved but still running rich. Thninking emulsion tubes? And cannot find them to buy/replace to save my life. Ideas on why running rich? All 4 carbs running rich? At exactly the same time? Really?
And any treasure map to oem emulsion tubes or compatible appreciated?
Yeah yeah, checked the air filter so anything else?
MechanicsWife2013

As known, running too rich may also result from non-carb issues such as ignition and/or compression.

Would assure correct ignition timing and proper functioning of the advancer unit.
With spark plugs removed, spin over the engine and check for fat blue sparks (not wimpy orange sparks).
As already noted, assure factory spec spark plugs (am guessing NGKB8ES).
Stock plug caps already contain resistors.
Do not add further resistance elements into the secondary loop (see illustration below).
Do not use "R" spark plugs.
Use solid metal core plug wires (not resistor wires).
More than one resistance element in the secondary loop reduces spark quality (thereby leading to inadequate combustion).
Old, hard, worn-out spark plug wires may leak high intensity voltage, which causes weak spark, resulting in less than ideal combustion..




As noted, would assure valve clearances within specs.
Would also perform compression testing.
And a leakdown test.

A leakdown test can be performed by introducing compressed air into a spark plug hole to pressurize the combustion chamber and then listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or any other cam positions where both valves are fully closed. Top dead center (TDC) is when the piston is at its highest position. An easy way to tell TDC is by alignment of the T mark with the case mark when viewed through the timing window.

May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air.

May alternatively use a portable compressed air tank.
Air heard escaping from exhaust port indicates exhaust valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).
Air heard escaping from carb intake indicates intake valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).
Air heard escaping from crankcase breather indicates loss of compression past rings into crankcase (perhaps worn piston rings or cylinders).
Air heard escaping from head gasket area indicates indicates loss of compression past head gasket (perhaps due to a blown head gasket).
A leaking valve may sometimes be resolved by adjusting the clearance to within specs.
A leaking head gasket may sometimes be resolved by torquing the head fasteners when the engine is stone cold (such as after sitting overnight).

Good Fortune!