TOPIC:

Nessism wrote: With proper jetting CV carbs will run well with pods. Like all pod equipped bikes they can be sensitive to crosswinds and rain though.

Let's sum this mod up. We delete a engineered part because it's hard to install, if we don't know how , only to >cause< drivability problems forever. Got it!

What a deal! LOL

Jimbo302 wrote: ...............I had planned on using my stock modded air Box, then recalled what a pain it was to install carbs with and contemplated pods. .........

Before you make airbox mods I suggest you take some time and become familiar with how the CV carbs operate. The link below should help. Ed

old_kaw wrote:

Nessism wrote: With proper jetting CV carbs will run well with pods. Like all pod equipped bikes they can be sensitive to crosswinds and rain though.

Let's sum this mod up. We delete a engineered part because it's hard to install, if we don't know how , only to >cause< drivability problems forever. Got it!

What a deal! LOL

I'm an airbox guy myself. I do know lots of guys running pods without issues though. You just need to sort out the jetting.

old_kaw wrote:

Jimbo302 wrote:

davido wrote: A lot of hoopla about pods vs airbox on here. Im more on the airbox side, though my CSR is fitted with pods (also BS34s,I believe) as the frame bracing cuts through where the airbox should go. I had no choice.

Any mods done to make them work?

Now that's funny! They seemed to work pretty good to make it 84K miles. and star on numerous episodes of "CHIPS" with Eric Estrada chasing criminals. lol

Normally just getting a bike that rough back in running condition doesn't need 'mods" to make it run right, it just needs to be as "right" as it was when new.

My question was in regards to making the work well with pods.

davido wrote:

Jimbo302 wrote:

davido wrote: A lot of hoopla about pods vs airbox on here. Im more on the airbox side, though my CSR is fitted with pods (also BS34s,I believe) as the frame bracing cuts through where the airbox should go. I had no choice.

Any mods done to make them work?

Yes.rejetting was needed, but I also had 1070 pistons fitted and a 4into1 with a race baffle,so the original setup was never going to cut it. I did cop out though and take the bike to be set up properly on a dyno. No way I would have been able to do it myself.
It does fart and splutter a bit but it feels smooth and seems to idle well so far,though I still havent given it a good thrashing to settle everything in yet (thatll be next year)

Thank you for the info.

Carbs are gone through. I used all the new pieces and saved the old ones for extras. Other than junk on the seat filters and two clogged pilot jets, they were pretty good. I ordered a screw kit to replace the cap screws.

650ed wrote:

Jimbo302 wrote: ...............I had planned on using my stock modded air Box, then recalled what a pain it was to install carbs with and contemplated pods. .........

Before you make airbox mods I suggest you take some time and become familiar with how the CV carbs operate. The link below should help. Ed

I had planned to open up the area of the box under the seat for more air flow to the factory air filter as well as larger jets for the pipe. It won't affect the box between the filter and the carbs and It's a reversible modification if need be.

I ordered new intake boot bolts and a set of screws for the carb bowls.
When those get in I will be interested to see how it runs.

Carbs turned out great. It cranks and idles solid, and revs very quick.

It currently has a stock untouched air box with a new factory filter.
I temporarily bolted on four open header pipes, aside from being too loud, the engine seems to love the combo with the bigger jets.

So speaking of the seat filters, is there any advantage to removing them if you run an in line filter? Just asking.

havakaw wrote: So speaking of the seat filters, is there any advantage to removing them if you run an in line filter? Just asking.

I wondered the same thing. I reinstalled them and they seem fine.
I recently installed a Delkavic 4into1 and reset the mix screws to 1 1/2.
Mid range and low end were very strong , but full throttle pulls were a little choppy, with lackluster pull at high rpm. I'm going to go back in and set the mix screws individually and see if that helps.

havakaw wrote: So speaking of the seat filters, is there any advantage to removing them if you run an in line filter? Just asking.

Filters for gravity feed fuel systems don't filter all that fine. They are more of a screen than a filter and small particles can get past them.