Z1 air box on 78 kz1000

I have a stock 78 kz1000 B2. Will the after market Z1 air box work on my bike, without having to use every tool to pry the boots on?
Will they be issues with the side covers? What would be the jetting on the stock 26`s ?
Sorry for being so bunt but carpal tunnel is a B.
Thanks for the replies

I have one on my B4.  The only issue I encountered was supporting it underneath so that it didn't put any weight on the carbs.  Z1's have an extension bolted to the battery box to take the weight.

Is the airbox 1 pc or plastic and rubber? Are the tubes that are on the box connect to the carbs/
Thanks

... stock 78 kz1000 B2. Will the after market Z1 air box work on my bike -- YES
As noted by hardrockminer, would fashion a support underneath the Z1 air box.

Will they be issues with the side covers? -- NO

What would be the jetting on the stock 26`s ? -- same as with the stock air box. FSM says 105 main, 15 pilot

Good Fortune!

lash wrote: Is the airbox 1 pc or plastic and rubber? Are the tubes that are on the box connect to the carbs/
Thanks

www.z1enterprises.com/airbox-z1.html

www.z1enterprises.com/airbox-lid-z1.html

Stock Z1 has a clamp on each connection where the air box attaches to the carb.

www.z1enterprises.com/airbox-clamp-kawas...-kz90044-kz1000.html

Z1E also list several other less expensive clamps that might do in a pinch, but which might be thinner and therefore less desirable due to causing more wear on the hoses.

www.z1enterprises.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=air+box+clamps

Good Fortune!

Thanks for the info. I purchase the bike in 78, rode, 85 got married rode some more, 87 start having kids stop riding so much, 02 stop riding, 18 retired  time to start riding again. I just wanted to make it easier to remove my carbs for servicing.  I still have a lot of work ahead of me but it will be worth it. Thanks to all

lash wrote: . . . wanted to make it easier to remove my carbs for servicing. . . .

Any air box hoses can be a  pain to deal with when removing the carbs and again when replacing the carbs.
Once properly cleaned on the bench (including fuel level adjustment if needed) and installed with a good new aftermarket inline fuel filter and a new stock air cleaner, it should be a long time before needing to again remove the carbs.

There are specific carb cleaning techniques available here on-site to help assure being "properly" cleaned the first time and thereby avoid having to do it all over again. And most of the time it's not necessary to separate the carbs from the rack.

Do the carbs at hand have a side-located pilot air adjustment screw or a bottom-located pilot mixture screw?




Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: ................. installed with a good new aftermarket inline fuel filter and a new stock air cleaner, it should be a long time before needing to again remove the carbs...........

Absolutely true!  I've owned my 1977 KZ650 since new (a bit more than 41 years).  I had to remove the carbs once to clean them after letting them sit with fuel in them for a year (my fault), and I had to remove them the second time, 13 years ago, to replace the carb holders.  That's only 2 times in 41 years and more than 61,000 miles.  Ed

I agree that it makes removing carbs easier.  It also adds some room under the seat because the battery is down low...not high like on a Z1.

Because it's a '78 I suspect the carbs have pilot screws, not fuel/air screws.  I think in late '78 KHI switched to 28 mm pumpers.  My B4 has pumpers but I replaced them with a set of VM 26SS carbs with fuel/air screws.  

The screw is on the bottom. I think the stock setting is 1 turn out for the 78 kz1000 B2

Being not to sure on how much riding I will be able to do, I just want to be able take them off easier. Gas is not what it use to be. Do you guys run any fuel additives in your bikes? What about winter storage . This is getting off subject sorry.

As far as I've read, Sta-Bil 360 performance is the latest and greatest to add per tank-full and prevent ethanol corrosion in carbs.

That's what I'm using, but it could be all BS.

If you don't run it for 6 months (or sometimes even 3) or more, drain the tank and carbs. That's the only way to be sure.

More advice: Only use Super gas (93 octane), it has less ethanol than regular. It also might help fueling up at big-name gas stationions who advertise Top-Tier fuel. Stations that don't may be putting god-knows-what in the mixture, with no restrictions.