Adding sea foam after carb rebuild?

Hey, new to the forums and bike world.

The bike I’m working on is a ‘76 KZ900 which hasn’t ran in over a decade. Threw dynas electronic ignition on and got spark back, compression test went well, and I’m currently rebuilding the set of mikuni carbs. After looking down the spark plug hole the top of the cylinder is really dirty and instantly through of sea foam as a cleaner.

This is probably a silly question but I need some others voices on it. Sea foam and freshly rebuilt carbs will be alright correct? I also see that you are able to clean the crank case with it or with the kz900 it’s the “chain oil case” correct? I’ll be replacing the chain after I get the bike running so I can run the cleaner th right then replace the chain.

Has anyone had issues with seafoam or any other cleaners? Any better methods of cleaning up the combustion chamber/crank case other than running it before and oil change?

The one problem I have read about with Seafoam is when folks do not follow the instructions on the can. Instead of using the recommended amount per gallon of fuel they put in too much, then they are surprised when they have problems with the engine not running well. Be sure to use only the recommended amount per gallon of fuel. Ed

Assure that carb cleaner spray exits into orifice #6 into the carb bore.
An obstructed orifice into carb bore may be stubborn to clean, and perhaps not cleared via ultrasonic soaking or other methods other than rather forceful spray as indicated in the above diagram

Good Fortune!

As known, when dealing with the carbs, always keep the same needle with its same seat, and do not mix and match needles and seats.

When bench-syncing the carbs, remember to set the idle knob where there's sufficient thread remaining to further lower the slides during the later running-sync.

Would also inspect the automatic ignition timing advancer, which may require lubrication at the least, and perhaps also removal and cleaning.

Good Fortune!

Valve guide seals are likely to be the culprit. If they are hard then the O ring around the cam chain tunnel will start leaking as well.
Steve

Read up a little on Regane carb and comb cleaner.......... I used half water and half trans fluid sprayed in the carbs while reving as a suggestion but didn't seem to do much. The regane might help over the long haul.... i've been using it since I put in the new pistons and they look damn good but I only have a little over 2,000 miles too.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI always use ERC carb dip to clean carburetors with very good results.
It can be diluted with fuel and is re-usable for later carb rebuilds.

www.erc-online.de/en/erc-additiv/product...carburettor-cleaner/

You don't need to worry about carbon on the pistons. It's normal.

Not sure what the question is regarding the chain case. Are you contemplating Sea Foam to clean the outside of the engine? If so, that's a very expensive choice. I'd use mineral spirits or some sort of engine cleaner spray.

If the carb cleaning was a can of carb spraying on a workbench I would say yes, run some "Seafoam". If it was a dip/soak or sonic cleaner total disassembly, new gaskets rebuild, then no Seafoam treatment would be needed. If the bike isn't ridden regularly, then perhaps it could be needed/used if the bike runs kinda off after some time. I do use seafoam to keep my XS650 BS34's clean.

Personally I prefer Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner over Seafoam. But as others have said only the recommended amount. I also put one quart of MMO into the crankcase with the remainder plain dyno oil . Run that for 100 miles or so then drain and refill with oil. That really removes the sludge from the crankcase on old neglected bikes and auto engines.

jdvorchak wrote: Personally I prefer Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner over Seafoam. But as others have said only the recommended amount. I also put one quart of MMO into the crankcase with the remainder plain dyno oil . Run that for 100 miles or so then drain and refill with oil. That really removes the sludge from the crankcase on old neglected bikes and auto engines.

A trick my Dad taught me is to put transmission fluid in the crankcase before you change the oil, and while the old dirty oil is still in. Run it for 15 min and drain. Man the stuff that came out of the engine was amazing. I use it on this beast. my Buick