Mikuni VM26 Carbs

Howdy all,

I'm looking for a repair manual or even a video to help me tear my 26mm carbs completely down off the rack. The black paint is flaking on them and I also want to rebuild, so I may as well do it right. I've looked high and low for anything to help me separate the carbs from the rack without much success. Anyone know if there is a step by step manual or video for these old Mikuni's?

Thanks!!

members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/i.../vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

Get an O-ring kit from cycleorings.com

This tutorial doesn't describe every screw you need to remove, nor should it be necessary. Just take the carbs apart and take some photos along the way if you want a visual reference of where everything goes. It's not rocket science. A couple of notes: there is no reason to take all the slide parts apart, and be sure to keep the float needle and seat together as a set, Numbering the slides so they get back into the correct hole is a good idea too.

The best way I've found to remove the black paint is using heavy duty paint stripper. Wash off and then mask and bead blast. It's a lot of work but your carbs will look like new when done.

Thanks for the info!! The guide that you attached is very helpful. I'm pretty good with single carbs, but this rack of four is pretty daunting. I suppose I can't mess anything up that can't be fixed.

I got the carbs apart with no problems and am feeling good about it. I'm not sure if I should try to use the original tees or to purchase the newer aluminum ones with the replacement o-rings. Any input on this? Thanks!!

I'd save the cash and just get new rings if they are not damaged.

I have the old style that don't have O-rings on them. I don't know how well the old ones will seal though.

I refurbish my old tees by using a shrink tube over the fuel inlets to get them sealed like new.

If the fuel tee rubber coating is not cracked at all and the tee has a snug fit inside the carb bodies they will work fine. I'd soak them in a cup of gasoline for a few hours before testing them because it will swell up the rubber coating on the tee.

Nessism method is right and will work more or less but the tees rubber will dry out over a short period of time.
The tees rubber will lost tension and leaking again. The shrink tube gives you a little more preload to prevent leaking.
Its a PITA to do it twice, i speech of experience.
You need only a 20 cents piece of 4 inch long shrink tube to get on the save side.

Nessism wrote: If the fuel tee rubber coating is not cracked at all and the tee has a snug fit inside the carb bodies they will work fine. I'd soak them in a cup of gasoline for a few hours before testing them because it will swell up the rubber coating on the tee.

Excellent advice!

I had the tank off my KZ650 and the fuel line and tee drained over a winter when I had the bike in my basement working of the front forks. In the spring when I took the bike outside, put the tank on, and turned on the fuel the tee leaked pretty badly. I spent a couple days trying to find a new tee, but before I found one the old tee stopped leaking. That was 10 years ago and it has not leaked a single drop since. I can only assume that as that tee became wet with fuel it swelled up or something, because fuel is definitely what made it stop leaking. Ed

Thanks for the info once again guys. I'll tell you what...that black paint is a bear to get off!! I used paint stripper on the mounting plate and one of the carbs then used glass to blast it. It still took some effort!! I saw that there are felt rings inside the mounting plate and one of mine is half gone. I'm not sure if it'll mess me up or not. I feel that it will be fine, but I'll defer to the experts.