TOPIC:

This is the 5th KZ I've owned and I always find it difficult to remove the carbs but this one has me stumped. The air box doesn't seem to be bolted on in any way that I can see. Now I can probably remove the carbs with the air box and boots in place but I'm wondering is that right?

At this point I can try to force the carbs out past the boots or remove each boot individually then pull the carb rack. It looks like I may have enough room if I push the back of the carb rack down under the boots while I'm removing them from the intake insulators.

Any suggestions?

Correction I thought it was an LTD but the serial number starts with KZ750H-0xxxxx. So is this an H0? It is chain drive but the side covers say 750LTD.

I'm always confused by the old Kawasaki nomenclature....

One each side of the airbox near the back you should find a little "L" shaped bracket that secures it to the frame. If you remove the bolts that hold those brackets to the frame you will be able to move the airbox rearward a tiny bit; not much,but every little bit helps. The carb ducts will be very hard if they are old. Plan on replacing them if you can find some new old stock replacements. The carbs should be able to be pulled free from the ducts as you remove them to the right hand side of the bike. Ed

Air box is usually held in place by a couple of L shaped brackets which slot into the back of the box and bolt to the frame.

If the boots are soft and pliable then roll the ring spring back. Fold the air box hoses back on themselves. Pull the carbs back and up.
All this after removing the tank, freeing the throttle cable and loosening the hose clamps




Without soft air box hoses then a bit of heat from a hair dryer might help

The early 80s 750 four cyclinders came in E1 E2 E3 (80 - 82 ) H1 H2 H3 - 80 - 82 LTD models

Yup, TWO of those L brackets. On the lower rear sides, behind the side covers.

Thanks Ed but I don't have those brackets on mine or the molded grooves those L brackets slide into. I think maybe it's an 81 KZ750 H2. The 80 parts fiche shows those brackets and that is the way my KZ1100 is attached. I can't find an 81 H2 parts fiche online. Parzilla has the parts list but no picture. Fortunately my boots are not rock solid. Not new by any means but seem pretty flexible for their age.

Even though I plan on replacing the boots, if I have to, I don't want to tear these up getting the carbs out since they are still somewhat flexible. The part that has me confused is I can find no visible means of support for the air box! I have some silicone soaking the rubber parts now and I'll try tomorrow. Actually I can move the air box up a little and back a little but have not forced it loose from the carbs.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationBoth the '80 & '81 use the same airbox (and those tabs) according to the fishe. Maybe someone lost the tabs for yours?

Here is an 1981 750 LTD airbox on ebay. Check the photos showing the tabs...

Thanks. I was looking in the wrong spot. I was looking just behind the fat part not buried behind a bunch of wires further aft. I couldn't imagine them "free floating" that air box so I thought I'd ask here and I really appreciate the help.

This is a bike that was given to me with a clean title. While it's dirty and hasn't run in a while and has some hacked wiring, I'm anxious to get it running. No hurry tho. I have 3 other bikes that I ride daily.

Update. I found the bolt/bracket on the right side behind the turn signal self cancelling unit. The left side was missing the bracket and bolt. Carbs came out pretty easily after I heated the boots with my heat gun and folded two back onto themselves and pushed the middle two back into the air box. Now the fun starts with cleaning the carbs.....


Thanks again guys...

Nessism, is that you on the GS Resources too? You've helped me there when I had a couple of GS850's.

Don't mix parts between carbs, Carb parts tend to wear together so mixing parts between carbs can cause problems. If you plan to disassemble all 4 at the same time I suggest you use 4 containers to keep each carb's parts separate from those of the other carbs. Ed

Those 750 Keihin carbs are more work to service than the more common BS CV Mikuni's. In particular, you have to remove the choke plates to ungang the carbs. Thing is though, you must ungang in order to clean the carbs properly. Take out all the jets and such and soak the carb bodies in carb dip, then replace all the various O-rings. I've got the O-rings if you are in need, or order from a dealership source or Z1.

And no disrespect towards Ed but I don't bother to keep all the parts together for each carb, exception being the float needle and seat. Everything else is interchangeable. The float height will need to be set to the carb in question, but that's the case regardless.

I have rebuilt a few Keihin and more than a few BS3x so I have a process for keeping parts in order. I can only do one carb at a time as my chem dip only holds one. So that kinda forces me to keep parts together. I have a pretty good assortment of O-rings (metric) but I may have to hit you up especially if you sell them in kit form.

Last Keihin's I did I used red locktite, could have been blue, on the choke butterfly screws when I reassembled the rack. I had a leaking fuel pipe between two carbs. So I unganged them and replaced all of the O-rings. IMHO Mikuni's are much easier to ungang.

Never had trouble taking the carburetors out, however I always have a hard time putting them back in. Is it easier to first install the carbs to the air box and then attach to engine or vice versa?