I am having my own issue. Not quite like the KZ 900 thread. My number 3 carb likes to pee on the floor. So I replaced the Float needle and seat. Checked level with clear tube. looked good. Put the carbs back on the bike and went for a ride. Got up the next morning, Gas on the floor (petcock repacked still leaks got a line on a new one) and the drain tube for #3 is wet. Hmmm a sinking float?
Put a spare float in and did the clear tube test. Adjusted float. I though I wonder what will happen if I leave the gas one and take a break.
Come back out after a nice break and find #3 float level had risen and there was a gas drip on the vent tube. (I know what you are thinking there was already gas in the catch pan.)
Ok time to punt and reset float level.
I am generally pretty gentle while working with floats and float pins and was really po'ed when I found movement in one of the legs that hold the float pin. Some one did a nice job of repair (it looks like they pinned it) and I think this was a carb I got off ebay.
I found evidence of being glued in. Only alternative was to re-glue with some gas resistant epoxy for fuel tanks. I know this will not be a permeant repair but should work until I can find another #3.
So. Does any one have a post 73 Z1 900 VM28 that will fit in the #3 position that is in good shape? My Z1 is a 1975.
I wish I could. Lousy camera and no smart phone. Someone pinned it and then glued it down. I think the Valvoline carb cleared did the old epoxy in. I was unable to pull it off the pin, just raise it a little. I tried to get some of the gas repair epoxy under it and held it down with a C clamp in case I did and built up around it. I just didn't want to break it any more than it already was. Float is back on and pinned.
Assuming the carb's bowl has an overflow tube in it you should check to ensure that the tube doesn't have any cracks in it. One easy way to do this is to remove the carb bowl and fill it with fuel (do this outside your house). Let it sit over night and then see if any fuel has leaked out of the bowl through the overflow. If it leaks you'll need to repair the tube or replace the bowl. Ed
Good idea to replace the carb body with the broken post.
Better check your petcock while you are at it. When the lever is set to ON there should be no fuel dribbling out unless vacuum is pulling on the diaphragm. Also, when set to ON, make sure no fuel back-flows down the vacuum line and into the carbs that way. If you decide to rebuild the petcock get OEM Kawasaki parts (if available). K&L petcock parts suck and are high risk.
That is very good. It is important that no JB Weld or other residue is on the metal. The aluminum is porous so that stuff gets deep inside the metal. If I hadn't used JB on my crank journal, it would have been easy to just build up around the pin area causing much less distortion. Jeff had to grind, weld over and over to burn out that crap. I was lucky he was able to do it at all.
Steve
Does it really matter which carb goes in which spot other than the air screw being pointed the wrong direction?
I have two extra racks of carbs for the late vm28sc. I am new to the site and don't know if we discuss selling or if donation is the expectation among members...Can you send me a PM?
Assuming the carbs are similar to those on my KZ650, it matters. Consider the fuel supply orientation and the carb bowl venting. For example; if you put a #4 carb in the #1 carb position the fuel supply inlet for the #4 carb would be facing outboard rather than facing card #2. Another example would be if you put a #1 carb in the #3 position or a #3 carb in the #2 position there would be no venting for the carb bowls. Ed
The micro welding looks like something to store in the back of the brain pan. So thanks Leon for that info and link.
Petcock. I put an 0 ring kit in it to no avail about a week ago. Subsequently I have a line on a new one. Not a repo but a genuine Kawasaki part but s for a different bike but looks pretty darn close. Also back in 75 they didn't have vacuum petcocks on the Kawasaki's yet.....all manual. Based on my owning or riding a 350, 750 triples and the 900.
Ed, I've thought of the ability to put a another carb in the #3 spot. Bowl drain and air screw location would be a problem.
I considered the flat bowl leaking. Clear tube showed after letting it sit for awhile the fuel level went high.. and fuel out the fuel over flow was probably correct. I think what happened is the float pulled the leg up which raised the fuel level. I feel some what silly for not catching the broken leg earlier. After investigation I found remains of epoxy and think the carb cleaner I was using did the epoxy in.
I should have a #3 from the old rack someplace. I already robbed #2 for the same thing a broken float leg. Finding what I did with the old rack could be problematic. I don't find things as good as I used to. Quickest way for me to find something is buy another first. Tim
It's official! I'm a idiot! I found my old carbs and it isn't carb 3 it's carb 2. Inside next to choke level. I got the cylinder numbering mixed up or something. Heck I might have even put the new needle and seat in the wrong carb.
So the carb body I have is no help. Darn it. (That's D A R N I T but doesn't look that way) Cool and rainy today so I'll see if the repair works tomorrow. That will be almost 48 hrs. of cure time. then I'll start looking for another #2 VMM 28. Good thing the Z1 is not my primary motorcycle. It's fun for parades and other short runs though.
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