POD FILTER CHOICES

More than a few on here think not (and will preach the air box is the way) but I've never seen a top running drag bike without a set. Foam over em "probably" makes em about equal to K and Ns but will admit don't know....... a guy that used to run his 1000 at the strip said when he took the screens off his stacks at the strip he picked up a consistent tenth off his time. Wonder if you could take a hole saw and open up the holes on those ram airs but then they might not fit tight enough too?

KZB2 650 wrote: More than a few on here think not (and will preach the air box is the way) but I've never seen a top running drag bike without a set. Foam over em "probably" makes em about equal to K and Ns but will admit don't know....... a guy that used to run his 1000 at the strip said when he took the screens off his stacks at the strip he picked up a consistent tenth off his time. Wonder if you could take a hole saw and open up the holes on those ram airs but then they might not fit tight enough too?

I've been messaging Ramair through ebay, and they recommend the following: "It's essential that there is space (ideally at least 20mm), otherwise you're reducing the surface area massively."
Ok, there will be a 20mm space behind my 30mm stacks, based on the filter measurements provided in the ebay listing, and to ensure that the filters don't get sucked forward by intake air velocity, I'll devise something to prevent forward movement of the filter.
Curious the purpose of the wedged shape of their filter

daveo wrote: Cool, I've always liked the concept, but wonder if velocity stacks actually provide noticeable performance advantages over simply using K&N Pods on city streets, and highways?

Velocity stacks make a big difference, smoothing out incoming air into the carb throat, you won't find a good circuit race bike without them..

Uni make some cool "Quad pods" for all types of carbs and bikes....

www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d361_Quad_Pods.html

daveo wrote: Cool, I've always liked the concept, but wonder if velocity stacks actually provide noticeable performance advantages over simply using K&N Pods on city streets, and highways?

To me, the 'CITY and HIGHWAY' question is really relevant.

sure this may help on a race or drag bike, but that does not translate into better day to day performance.

does this help low end and midrange?

khungerf wrote:

daveo wrote: Cool, I've always liked the concept, but wonder if velocity stacks actually provide noticeable performance advantages over simply using K&N Pods on city streets, and highways?

To me, the 'CITY and HIGHWAY' question is really relevant.

sure this may help on a race or drag bike, but that does not translate into better day to day performance.

does this help low end and midrange?

Excellent point! There are plenty of mods that work great on race bikes that don't work well on a daily rider. Race track conditions are very different than public streets - no potholes, speed bumps, slick road surfaces, pedestrians, stop signs, cars, dogs, etc. plus a totally different set of rules compared to laws pertaining to street riding - no speed limits, noise abatement, different lighting requirements, etc. Ed

650ed wrote:

khungerf wrote:

daveo wrote: Cool, I've always liked the concept, but wonder if velocity stacks actually provide noticeable performance advantages over simply using K&N Pods on city streets, and highways?

To me, the 'CITY and HIGHWAY' question is really relevant.

sure this may help on a race or drag bike, but that does not translate into better day to day performance.

does this help low end and midrange?

Excellent point! There are plenty of mods that work great on race bikes that don't work well on a daily rider. Race track conditions are very different than public streets - no potholes, speed bumps, slick road surfaces, pedestrians, stop signs, cars, dogs, etc. plus a totally different set of rules compared to laws pertaining to street riding - no speed limits, noise abatement, different lighting requirements, etc. Ed

Kawasaki ignored the memo :ohmy:
www.kawasaki.com/Products/2017-Ninja-H2?...PAGBUCKET-_-Ninja-H2

khungerf wrote:

daveo wrote: Cool, I've always liked the concept, but wonder if velocity stacks actually provide noticeable performance advantages over simply using K&N Pods on city streets, and highways?

To me, the 'CITY and HIGHWAY' question is really relevant.

sure this may help on a race or drag bike, but that does not translate into better day to day performance.

does this help low end and midrange?

Stacks help right across the rev range, using velocity stacks with some kind of filter will always be better than just pods by themselves, Pods are more susceptible to cross winds than they are with velocity stacks, because the stack puts the point of entry for the incoming air further from the carb mouth/throat where turbulence is not wanted, as I said earlier, the stacks smooth out the incoming air. For the guys commenting on race applications, they still have cross winds on the track. Nearly all motorcycle manufacturers use velocity stacks with the stock airboxes where side winds aren't even a problem, this should tell you something...
There are a couple of members here that have gone to great lengths to show how much improvement there is in performance when using stacks with pods, instead of just pods by themselves, any competent tuner will tell you the same....

750 R1 wrote: Velocity stacks make a big difference, smoothing out incoming air into the carb throat, you won't find a good circuit race bike without them..

Uni make some cool "Quad pods" for all types of carbs and bikes....

www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d361_Quad_Pods.html

Anyone have experience with the Uni Quad Pods? Looks like a pretty nifty setup...

750 R1 wrote: Stacks help right across the rev range, using velocity stacks with some kind of filter will always be better than just pods by themselves, Pods are more susceptible to cross winds than they are with velocity stacks, because the stack puts the point of entry for the incoming air further from the carb mouth/throat where turbulence is not wanted, as I said earlier, the stacks smooth out the incoming air. For the guys commenting on race applications, they still have cross winds on the track. Nearly all motorcycle manufacturers use velocity stacks with the stock airboxes where side winds aren't even a problem, this should tell you something...
There are a couple of members here that have gone to great lengths to show how much improvement there is in performance when using stacks with pods, instead of just pods by themselves, any competent tuner will tell you the same....

This is good information. I have done some searches on here and the old gpz forum and have not found much of a conclusion (i.e. dyno charts showing low and midrange improvement) do you have links to some of these threads.
(I have found lot of details about how much of a pain only using pods is.

I am not disagreeing with you at all, I certainly don't have much tuning experience and none on an older kz/gpz. I know different bikes respond different and also 'opening things up' often only results in gains at higher rpm (great for racing - not for the street).

Thanks,
Lee

daveo wrote: Kawasaki ignored the memo :ohmy:
www.kawasaki.com/Products/2017-Ninja-H2?...PAGBUCKET-_-Ninja-H2

Yes, I have seen that. That bike looks amazing!
But, that is NOT what I am looking for.
After road racing, supermoto racing and spending plenty of years riding bikes on the stree that could break most traffic laws in first gear. I am done with that.
I want a bike that if fun to ride but does not BEG to go 120 every time I touch the throttle.

Once upon a time I had an XS400 Yamaha with some very dirty stock air filters. The filters (two of them) were positioned behind the side covers and quite expensive, connected to the carbs with a rubber duct tube. I couldn't afford stock filters at the time so I bought a couple of cheap clamp on uni pods but the bike ran like crap. I experimented endlessly with different jets but couldn't get the bike to run right. Finally, as an act of desperation, I reinstalled the stock air runner tubes and clamped the uni pods onto the ends, behind the side covers similar to the stock setup. Low and behold the bike ran like a champ after that. The carbs/engine benefited greatly by smoothing out the airflow entering the carbs, much the same way velocity stacks do.

Many of the stock airboxes have build in velocity stacks on the inside. I think the idea is the same; smooth out the airflow entering the carbs. It's not so much a method of increasing airflow, just smoothing out the turbulence. An idea well worth exploring...

www.xs400.com/attachments/dsc03112-jpg.26341/

Nessism wrote: Once upon a time I had an XS400 Yamaha with some very dirty stock air filters. The filters (two of them) were positioned behind the side covers and quite expensive, connected to the carbs with a rubber duct tube. I couldn't afford stock filters at the time so I bought a couple of cheap clamp on uni pods but the bike ran like crap. I experimented endlessly with different jets but couldn't get the bike to run right. Finally, as an act of desperation, I reinstalled the stock air runner tubes and clamped the uni pods onto the ends, behind the side covers similar to the stock setup. Low and behold the bike ran like a champ after that. The carbs/engine benefited greatly by smoothing out the airflow entering the carbs, much the same way velocity stacks do.

Many of the stock airboxes have build in velocity stacks on the inside. I think the idea is the same; smooth out the airflow entering the carbs. It's not so much a method of increasing airflow, just smoothing out the turbulence. An idea well worth exploring...

www.xs400.com/attachments/dsc03112-jpg.26341/

I was initially convinced the air box was the way to go with the RS36 carbs, until my experiment with the K&N pod filters that were just sitting around in a cardboard box. That was it for the air box (still have it), and not sure if it will be used ever again.
Wondering if the stock original air box inlet passages are too-small (restrictive) for RS carbs vs. the BS34 CV that the box was designed for? If so, maybe there's a good way to remedy that, or perhaps it would work better as-is with the RS34's I have on it now...