VM26 Specs Needed

Awesome info Patton. Based on your data it seems these carbs are from a 1977 model. I didn't pull a needle to get the numbers because I was feeling lazy.

I need to make a tool of some sort to check the fuel level but I set all the floats to 24mm and didn't get any overflow.

The stink'n fuel tees are leaking though so it looks like this set is going to come apart again. I soaked the Tee's in gasoline for a couple of hours before install to swell them a little but wondering if some more time may be in order? I'm thinking about putting the carbs outside with fuel in them for the day to see if some more time may swell the tee some more.

Might be best to just bite the bullet and just get new Tee's. Fuel leaks suck.

I've been using the clear tube test method to set the service fuel level without worrying about the measured float height, reasoning that whatever float height produces the correct fuel level is the "correct" float height for the carb at hand.

I prefer doing the clear tube testing and float height adjusting using common household rubbing alcohol instead of gasoline, in the garage atop the work bench or better yet inside on the kitchen table, where alcohol avoids stinking up the place with the odor of gasoline.

After installing the carbs, can verify the correct fuel level with clear tube testing, which for me has stayed within spec.

I don't fool with the "special" tool, and simply use a clear tube having an outside diameter that self-screws into the drain plug hole, which works quickly and easily, and without leakage.

On the 29's, a conical grommet pressed into the drain hole holds one end of the clear tube, again without fooling with a special tool.






Good Fortune!

I like the fuel mixture screws better. more control.
Steve

Nessism wrote:

P1030329 by nessism , on Flickr

P1030330 by nessism , on Flickr

Wanted to mention that the carbs are absolutely beautiful.
Does the appearance result from soda-blasting or some other media blasting?
(If it's a secret, we'll understand.)

Good Fortune!

No secrets. Glass bead blasting and replating all the zinc parts.

I'm familiar with performing the clear tube test. Just didn't have the proper size tubing.

Set the carbs outside with fuel feeding the Tee's. Hoping the gasoline will swell up the Tee enough to stop the leak. If they are not leak free tonight when I get home from work I'll order new Tee's. Rubber coated types are about $22 each (need two) or aluminum ones are $17. The aluminum is not anodized though which is not ideal. I think there are brass tee's out in the market too. Do the KZ purest types prefer the stock type or does it not matter?

A upgrade is always better.
Steve

Nessism wrote: ...Set the carbs outside with fuel feeding the Tee's. Hoping the gasoline will swell up the Tee enough to stop the leak. If they are not leak free tonight when I get home from work I'll order new Tee's. Rubber coated types are about $22 each (need two) or aluminum ones are $17. The aluminum is not anodized though which is not ideal. I think there are brass tee's out in the market too. Do the KZ purest types prefer the stock type or does it not matter?

Guessing about 10~15 years ago one of the two original stock KZ900 "fuel pipe joints" (aka fuel tees) started ever-so-slight leakage, just enough to barely notice. The after-market metal with o'rings fuel tee versions weren't available at the time. Was informed about the option of wrapping the ridges with Teflon tape, but with the carbs already separated enough to install new tees, opted for the new stock items from Z1E, which have performed perfectly, same as when the bike was brand new off the showroom floor, and have so far resisted any ill effects from Ethanol gasoline.

Am unaware as to comparative performance between the stock and after-market tees, or whether the o'rings on the after-market versions might offer any significant advantage or disadvantage. The o'rings might conceivably be even more Ethanol resistant than the stock items have proven to be. But have been so very well pleased with the stock item, would most probably opt for them again. I haven't seen the brass versions.

If opting for the Teflon tape method, would use yellow rather than white tape as the yellow is reportedly more gasoline resistant.

Thanks for keeping us informed of developments.

Good Fortune!

Came home from work yesterday after the carbs sat with fuel feeding the Tee's all day and now there is no more weepage. I think the Tee rubber has swollen up enough to stop the leak. On my 750 the fuel warning light sensor leaked like crazy after sitting dry for some time but likewise, after a good fuel soaking the leakage went away completely. Fingers crossed. I've got fuel feeding the Tee's again today and I'll wiggle them around good and vigorously when I get home tonight to see if I can induce leakage. if not, I'll call it done and leave the Tee's alone.

I've brought 2 sets of Tee's back from the dead they haven't started leaking after many many tanks of gas.

The carbs on my 78 a2a has a vacuum nipple on the #3 carb and due to energy crisis they stepped the jets down to 102.5 on the mains and 15 on the pilot jets.
With Jardine pipes and with the stock jets I was getting close to 50 mpg but the engine was running hot with the leaned out carbs.

Wire George recommended going with 107.5 and 17.5.
Now the bike runs a lot cooler and has a bit more pickup, the trade off is gas consumption,is somewhere around 45 mpg now.

78 a2a carbs and data

Your carbs look real sharp, you may want to coat them with something before they start to oxidize

bluej58 wrote: Your carbs look real sharp, you may want to coat them with something before they start to oxidize

That's not a bad idea. I've got some Wizzard's Power Seal that's supposed to work well on raw metal. These carbs are not going to stick with me though. I redid them to resell.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI came across these while looking around.
Steve