Push/Pull throttle. Ditch the 2nd cable?

I don't want to completely disregard safety, but some are.....?
I removed the switch that wouldn't let you start the bike unless the clutch was pulled. Some bikes have that "it won't start with the kickstand down" switch. I mean, do we need these?
I just want to simply as much as possible, and I'm still having an idle issue with the bike. I had a vacuum leak awhile ago that was causing the bike to surge when shifting because the idle wouldn't return fast enough. Changed the carb boots and rebuilt carbs, bike is running fantastic, but I still need to turn the idle down on a regular basis. I find myself "pushing" the throttle trying to get it to close, sometimes it does close those last few degrees, other times not. Just wondering if a single line could help at all. Maybe they're completely unrelated, but I don't understand why my idle keeps creeping up.

RonKZ650 wrote: I guess I had the exact opposite experience as Steve. I never blip my throttle, but every time I turned off the throttle there was like 1/2 second delay when I was running the push/pull cables. I tried every adjustment possible to no avail. I went to a single cable and what a dramatic improvement. This was on a KZ1000MKII that had superbike bars and Z1R cables to attempt to compensate. Later when I quit taking long trips I put the stock bars and cables back on and the throttle worked fine with the push/pull. It was something to do with the low bars, but there is no need to run the push cable in my opinion. I removed it on the KZ650 that also had superbike bars and rode it over 160,000 miles with just the pull cable. The throttle spring is plenty strong enough to make having a throttle stick open virtually impossible. Of course all safety features are there for a reason so decide for yourself what benefit the push cable may accomplish and is that safety feature a necessary thing. I'm not an overly safetycrat kind of guy, so I didn't hesitate to remove it.

When I installed my BS34 carbs I noticed they use just one cable. I found this odd as I thought most 80's bikes had the push/pull setup.

1982 Kz750 h3 1 cable kiehin cv-34's

It came with one cable stock?

dvnsta wrote: 1982 Kz750 h3 1 cable kiehin cv-34's

carwash wrote: It came with one cable stock?

dvnsta wrote: 1982 Kz750 h3 1 cable kiehin cv-34's

And the 1980 kz750/4 E1 is also 1 cable stock. The carb spring is pretty strong on the Keihin CV34s and is more than enough for a single cable setup

On the other hand i had CB500/4 and the 2nd cable was absolutely necessary. Mikuni carbs? Cant remember exactly but it definitely took the 2nd cable to reduce throttie

I'm thinking it depends on the bike and carbs

Yes stock with the cv34s.

Sry double post

carwash wrote: I hear that, but is this something that happens with any regularity? .......

With regularity? - No.

BUT just let it happen one time when you're in a situation when you really need to slow down and you will feel rather silly for removing the one thing that can save your butt from a trip to the hospital or morgue. Ed

Anyone really enjoy opening a bottle of aspirin and have to hold the bottle in one hand, while pushing tabs and at the same time turn while ining up two arrows, then set two arrows to presets to release levers to open the lid? Well I don't and the twin cables fall into the same basic catagory. To save inept from hurting themselves and or keep Kawasaki from lawsuits from them type riders.

That's what I"m thinking. Also a lot of times these features interfere with performance, I don't know if that'll be the case here, but considering my idle issues I'd like to remove as many unnecessary things from the equation as possible.

I am wondering if putting a slighter stiffer spring in is something that can or should be done?

RonKZ650 wrote: Anyone really enjoy opening a bottle of aspirin and have to hold the bottle in one hand, while pushing tabs and at the same time turn while ining up two arrows, then set two arrows to presets to release levers to open the lid? Well I don't and the twin cables fall into the same basic catagory. To save inept from hurting themselves and or keep Kawasaki from lawsuits from them type riders.

The stock spring is probably plenty strong. Test it by twisting the throttle, then releasing it --- the throttle should snap back. also, look at the spring to make sure it isn't deformed. eebbaayy nos photos are handy. If the handlebars & cable aren't stock, then you should double-check the routing of the cable & the operation of the throttle.

When using one cable, install an oem cable if possible and make sure the throttle tube & cable are in good condition & properly lubed, especially the cable end at the throttle. Check the grip end for burs or anything that would cause it to bind. I use brake caliper grease on the ends. Check & re-lube the cable & ends as necessary, such as after riding in heavy rain.

Kill switch. also, you should already know this, but familiarize yourself with the kill switch (run-stop switch).

CV carburetors. In regards to cv carburetors having one throttle cable, it may be that the butterfly valves have less of a chance of getting stuck open than mechanical throttle slide valves. just guessing. ???

That second cable will work as the first if yours breaks on the road - just switch positions, :blink: