Air Suction System removal.

I'm removing the Air Suction System on my KZ550. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the correct plugs for everything?
Also, are there Carb boots available that don't have the vacuum port on them? I may be replacing those as well.
thanks!

looks like part #16065-1051 might be the version without the vacuum port.
www.cmsnl.com/products/holder-carburetor...651051/#.V4cCNbxlmnc

Are you are talking about the emissions reed valves?
My 550a arrived with this already "plugged" and there seems to be little or no magic involved. Just rubber caps on the carb, reed valve ports and air box.
Ironically, I went and replaced my carb mounts to get those vacuum ports so I could try out carb synchronizing. :laugh:

When I decided to remove all the emissions stuff on KZombie, I did things a little different; I connected the left reed valve port to the right reed valve port with a short (original) piece of tubing used by the system, even with stock spring clamps. The carb port was just blocked with a new rubber boot made for this and for the air box hole I had to get a little creative and found these rubber parts in the auto parts store that are made for replacing a master cylinder reservoir's cap/seal - basically a larger diameter rubber plug - and RTV'd it into position on the air box so it's not obvious and yet, still useable if later, I want to put the emissions system back on it.

Yeah, talking about that Air Suction Emissions system. Was just wondering if there was a kit or anything available other than just sourcing out rubber plugs.
Did you connect the ports together for any reason other than the tube fit and it was an easy solution?

wrenchmonkey wrote: Are you are talking about the emissions reed valves?
My 550a arrived with this already "plugged" and there seems to be little or no magic involved. Just rubber caps on the carb, reed valve ports and air box.
Ironically, I went and replaced my carb mounts to get those vacuum ports so I could try out carb synchronizing. :laugh:

When I decided to remove all the emissions stuff on KZombie, I did things a little different; I connected the left reed valve port to the right reed valve port with a short (original) piece of tubing used by the system, even with stock spring clamps. The carb port was just blocked with a new rubber boot made for this and for the air box hole I had to get a little creative and found these rubber parts in the auto parts store that are made for replacing a master cylinder reservoir's cap/seal - basically a larger diameter rubber plug - and RTV'd it into position on the air box so it's not obvious and yet, still useable if later, I want to put the emissions system back on it.

A cleaner looking way to do it is to replace the top of the reed boxes (the part with the hose barb) with a flat aluminum plate. APE makes them for the 900-1100 engines, but I suspect you will have to fabricate you own for the 550. It isnt difficult.
The cleanest of all is to replace the cam cover with a non-US version that never had the setup.

P.S. You will want to use intake boots WITH the vacuum ports. They are necessary for tuning the carbs unless you have some carbs with those ports built in.

Looks like Ape is making them for KZ550 now as well. $50 a pair. They do look pretty good.
kzzone.com/billet.html

TexasKZ wrote: A cleaner looking way to do it is to replace the top of the reed boxes (the part with the hose barb) with a flat aluminum plate. APE makes them for the 900-1100 engines, but I suspect you will have to fabricate you own for the 550. It isnt difficult.
The cleanest of all is to replace the cam cover with a non-US version that never had the setup.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThey have this listed as "reed valve cap", though searching the part # it looks like it may part of the front cowling of a gpz.
?

Crack smokers. You are right, that is to cover a screw head on the fairing.
www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/...X1100-A1)/parts.html

Make sure you get intake manifolds WITH the vacuum tubes. That is how you sync the carbs. Keep the config of two pointing up, and two pointing down, just like the originals. Get high-quality caps. The cheapos vac caps, at parts stores, last about a month before they start cracking.