And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

  • Brick123c
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And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

03 Jun 2016 12:38
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Hey guys first time cleaning a carburetor and I'm not sure where to go from here. I pretty much just have the caps off and I'm not sure what to do next. If anyone knows where a video or step by step instructions are please lmk!
1982 Kz550

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  • SWest
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Re: And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

05 Jun 2016 08:46
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Is there any other option for me rather than spending 90 dollars on ordering oem gaskets for the carbs ? The guy before me used rubber gasket
1982 Kz550

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Re: And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

05 Jun 2016 08:46
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Can I make them out of a cutout ?
1982 Kz550

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  • missionkz
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Re: And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

07 Jun 2016 19:15
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Brick123c wrote: Is there any other option for me rather than spending 90 dollars on ordering oem gaskets for the carbs ? The guy before me used rubber gasket
Don't waste much, if any, money on buying bew brass parts, like jets, needles, seats... Etc.
I have yet to see hardly any of those parts ever really need replacement .... Especially on bikes under 20,000-30,000 miles.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado

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Re: And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

07 Jun 2016 19:23
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Only if they're munged up by the PO.
Steve

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Re: And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

08 Jun 2016 10:39
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PartsnMore.com has float bowl gaskets for the 550C Ltd. I don't know if they are paper or rubber. $4 each. I've placed a couple of orders with them in the past year. I get most of my stuff from Z1Enterprises.com, but I did not see the bowl gaskets for your bike.

Other stuff. loudhvx has a motorcycle stuff page with a bunch of KZ550 & TK22 info. be sure to read up on the choke flaps, as they can come off & get sucked into the engine. I think someone here on KZR reported that recently. I don't know if there's a preventative repair or what.

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Re: And... I'm stuck kz550 TK22

13 Jun 2016 10:19
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...mostly just inspection. The hinge curls break off one at a time. You can inspect them easily without removing the carbs. Just pull the tops off and remove the choke plate bell-crank screws. The hinge curls will develop what looks like a line parallel to the axis of the hinge. That develops into a crack, then the hinge curl breaks off. Later the second one will break off. Then the flap is free to go through the motor. You just have to make sure the curls look good and are both intact. The hinge pin also tries to walk out. That needs to be staked back in, very carefully as the casting very brittle. The pin won't come all the way out because the carb body captures it, but the pin can be loose which contributes to the flaps cracking.

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