Idle Screw Has Come Out

Hey all,

I've just spent all day reinstalling my carbs, had hells trouble getting the carb intake rubbers back on as one had hardened. Managed to get it using a hair dryer.

Anyways, I made a bloody stupid mistake. Started up, bike fired up beautifully with about 3/4 choke, as I dropped the choke I noticed the idle was too low. Without thinking I reached in and wound counter clockwise and felt the screw pop out of the thread.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting it back in without pulling the carbs back off the bike?

Thanks,

Scott

Nevermind, I got the idle screw sorted.

Now I've found a fuel leak. Had trouble replacing the fuel line from the carb to tank. I realize now I should have fitted the new line to the carbs before I reinstalled them.

Using silicone spray but it's not helping, and that damn fuel rail keeps spinning when I try to push the new hose on.

Is there any way to hold the rail still?

Could soften the end of fuel line before attempting to attach it to the carb inlet tee so that the softened end will more easily slip over the tee by momentarily dipping the end of the fuel line into near boiling water, and then immediately fitting the fuel line onto the tee.

Often a clamp isn't required, as the warm snug fitting fuel line will more tightly grip as it cools to ambient temperature.

Good Fortune!

Are you using 1/4 inch line ? A lot of us use 5/16 and heated up would be much easier.

My 33's have 5/16 inlets, the petcock is 1/4. I use a heat gun to fit the 1/4" line over the inlet.
Steve

Might also consider fitting a brass "reducer" in the fuel line somewhere between the carb inlet tee and the petcock nipple.
Thereby affording 1/4" hose at the petcock and 5/16" hose at the carb tee.

Reducers also come in some form of plastic, which could be okay if the reducer is fuel-proof.

Good Fortune!

Thanks for all the tips, I will head back to the parts store and buy the next size up in fuel line.

Our hoses are sold in mm, so I had 6.8mm hose, will go up to an 8mm.

I had put a fuel filter in straight after the petcock, perhaps I can find a fuel filter that will handle the reduction for me.

Is the T Piece on the carbs supposed to rotate 360 degrees? It is impossible to push a hose on because it runs away from me and I cant fit both hands in at once!

Perhaps hold the tee in position with needle nose pliers while attaching the hose.

I regularly enjoy using long version needle nose pliers for many purposes, including fuel lines, but am usually grasping the hose end instead of the tee joint.



The short version might also serve the purpose.




I see that Harbor Freight carries some inexpensive examples:
www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/...ight-jaws-39540.html
www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-long-reach-pliers-set-38598.html

Good Fortune!

Thanks for all the tips, hot water, some needle nosed players and a lot of patience did the trick and I was able to fit the hose last night...

Went for a test ride and I was very happy with the result. Low rev throttle is vastly improved.

I seem to have over or under tightened the throttle adjuster at the carbs, as the revs increase when I turn the handle bars to the right...

Anyway, thank you all for your advice - some before and after pics of the carbs below!

There should be a small amount of free play in the throttle cable.
Steve

Scorcher wrote: . . . revs increase when I turn the handle bars to the right . . . .

May need to re-route the throttle cable to avoid any sharp turns and be relatively loose throughout its length between the throttle grip and carburetor.
When tuning the handlebars from centered to full lock, should be easy enough to see where the cable routing needs more slack.
Don't necessarily need to route the cable between the headlight mounting ears before the cable goes under the fuel tank alongside the frame rail.

Good Fortune!