92066-1087 Pilot Jet Plug REMOVAL PROCEDURE

What is the best way to remove the soft metal Pilot Jet Plug without damaging it? I've destroyed several of them with pliers and vice-grips, and still haven't figured it out.
I have no desire to replace them with the rubber ones for Suzi's, just want to reuse them more than a few times.

See:
www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz1100-a2-shaft-1...pilot-jet_920661087/

I would either score a couple of slots to serve as pry points or drill a hole & tap some threads so that you can use a small screw to use as an extractor. prior to removing, spray some silicone spray lubricant or something.

martin_csr wrote: I would either score a couple of slots to serve as pry points or drill a hole & tap some threads so that you can use a small screw to use as an extractor. prior to removing, spray some silicone spray lubricant or something.

Super ideas there.

Those tiny plugs need to be finessed to get them out. Parallel jaw pliers may give a better grip and not damage them as the other types. Then there's the tiny-expensive o-ring, which must be squished very-carefully when putting the plug back in. They get damaged by the slightest sharp edge, if not pressed into the hole just right.

I'd get new O-rings and grease them before attempting install of the plug. I would never go through all the hassle of rebuilding a set of carbs and then reuse the old hard and brittle 30+ year old O-rings

Some heat on the carb passage may assist removal of the plug.

Once done, it should last years. Rejetting?
Steve

swest wrote: Once done, it should last years. Rejetting?
Steve

Been through this set of carbs a few times, and the last was to install brand new slides. A recent re-jet was when the header went on, then last Spring after the head transplant. It has 40 pilot jets and 132.5 main across the four. Last week I put one
.50 mm washer/shim under 2 & 3 needles to enrich them a touch. These carburetors seem to be working great...
makes me wonder if changing over to VM33's would be a waste of time and money.

As I've said before, they're obsolete. I got mine for $100. I wouldn't pay much more than that.
Steve

swest wrote: As I've said before, they're obsolete. I got mine for $100. I wouldn't pay much more than that.
Steve

If obsolete, then why are people paying three times that for a set? Seems to me you made a good investment, dude!

I checked my spark plugs after riding awhile with the modified air box (cover/snorkel removed), and here is what they look like after raising the 2 & 3 jet needles 0.5 mm (one washer):
Maybe two washers

They're period for the bike. That doesn't mean they are better. I'm making mine work no matter the cost.
You sure it's not oil on those plugs? I'd get it back to lean and start from there.
Steve

swest wrote: They're period for the bike. That doesn't mean they are better. I'm making mine work no matter the cost.
You sure it's not oil on those plugs? I'd get it back to lean and start from there.
Steve

Not oil, but possibly fuel from too-rich mixture. Should I start with the pilot screw adjustments, and then the jets if needed?
It starts up great, and runs strong. I do get some backfires on deceleration, if the throttle is shut quickly. But not so-much when easing it down. Would that be caused by the immediate shut off of fuel/air mix when the butterfly valves are closed quickly?

Sounds lean by the popping on deceleration. Your plugs almost look like mine.


I know the mains were too big, being aftermarket didn't help. Went down one step. When I get home, I'll take a pic of what they look like today. Might have to go down on the pilots too. Did you raise the float level? Could be masking your readings.
"One thing at a time."
Steve