intake boots symbols and installation order

I always have both open and compare the procedure.... sometimes the Clymer explains it better and has a few extra pics sometimes not.... but I agree if you only want one make it the factory... I can't remember a time where they counter each other but then I've not compared everything (but I will admit the factory has a list of where to use locking agent and the Clymer doesn't say anything about using it on carb holder boots...( does on cam chain brackets, cam sprokets, oil pump screws and a few others in the main engine section) ...... this time the Clymer and even the factory manual has no torgue values.

I don't recommend using a thread locking agent. Those screws tend to get pretty locked in with corrosion over time.
I actually use antiseize just because of the water/salt climate I live in.


They are a low-torque situation, and were originally cross-head (JIS) screws on most Kz's, but I'm not positive on the H model 550.
If you use too much torque, and warp the metal base flange, you will get a vacuum leak eventually.

Just make sure the mating surface on the head is perfectly clean and the new boots will seal.


In order to center them, I install them just barely snug, then install the carbs and wiggle the carbs around to let the boots move to where they want with minimal distortion on the boots. Then I try to snug the screws up. Then I pull the carbs off carefully and tighten the screws the final amount.

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650ed wrote:

KZB2 650 wrote: ..... this time the Clymer and even the factory manual has no torgue values.

Huh? The image I posted above DOES show the torque values for the carb holder screws. That information is cut and pasted directly from the KZ550 Kawasaki Service Manual. What Kawasaki Service Manual are you using that is missing that information? Ed

The image I see posted just has dash marks, no torque values.

What is the torgue value of a dash like shown here and in mine?

Holy crap! You are right and I am dead-ass wrong! I saw the title for carb holder screws and didn't even look at the torque. I most humbly apologize for such a stupid mistake! Ed

Your still the man to go to for info Ed no sweat.

KZB2 650 wrote: What is the torgue value of a dash like shown here and in mine?

In that case, I would use the values as specified on Page 43 (see below). Ed

KZB2 650 wrote: Your still the man to go to for info Ed no sweat.

+1

by loudhvx: I don't recommend using a thread locking agent. Those screws tend to get pretty locked in with corrosion over time... I actually use antiseize just because of the water/salt climate I live in.

In lieu of a locking agent, I often times use permatex high temp thread sealant. fasteners are repositionable afterwards & the stuff holds them in place.

650ed wrote:

KZB2 650 wrote: What is the torgue value of a dash like shown here and in mine?

In that case, I would use the values as specified on Page 43 (see below). Ed

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There you go Ed I been racking my brain trying to remember where I came up with the 60 inch lb figure in my head and here it is.

650ed wrote:

shamal wrote: in the manual i can't find the correct torque for the boots bolts.
any advice about boots collar? how thight?
i cleaned well the surface on the head

You need to throw your manual (probably Clymer or Haynes) in the trash can and buy a Kawasaki Service Manual. If you do that you will be able to find the torque values for your bike. Below is an image from the manual. The dot in the "Remark" column indicates that a non-permanent locking agent should be applied to the screws. You do not use washers. Ed

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So the other ¢ P1.0 bolts show 87in lbs.... why not these?