Carburetor Leak, Bike Won't Run

So what's everyone think about the possibility of the distributor being bad?

Seems a bit unlikely since the bike has no distributor. You really need to buy a Kawasaki Service Manual. Working on the bike without one is a REALLY bad idea! Ed

No distributor, coils maybe. Pics of plugs? Carbs still leaking?
Steve

Not very knowledgeable of all the part names. Watched a youtube video on testing the coils. Testing the primary coil, it jumped all over the place, from between 5.5 ohms to 13. Testing the secondary I got no reading, so I'm going to assume that's it. I fixed the carburetor leak, dropped the floats a tad like was suggested. Need a new petcock for the tank, however. flic.kr/p/Emj7pp

New coil, new petcock, new Uni air filters. Bike runs on both cylinders, but both cut off intermittently, and for a quick second, then come back on. Kick starts fine. Runs at almost full choke. Air adjustment screws do nothing. After a few times getting it running, both plugs foul and get extremely black. Neither carburetor is leaking from the overflow.

The possible things I might try:
•Slightly lowering the floats
•Try running without air filters
•Raise idle speed

Here is a link to it running:

Running without air filters is a really bad idea. What did you do to compensate for the fact that you have pods on the bike? Are you aware that you will have difficulties getting the bike to run as well as stock since you have CV carbs with pods? Maybe someone else can give you the magic jetting formula.

Also, I see jumper cables attached to the battery while the bike is running. PLEASE tell me the other end is not attached to a battery charger or another running vehicle. :S Ed

Battery charger was not on, just gave it a boost prior since it hasn't been charged in a while. And the bike was rejetted by the previous owner, who ran it with the stock air box for a year or two. As for the CV aspect, I don't know what that means in terms of negatively affecting the bike with the new filters.

You may want to use the KZRIDER search feature. There's quite a bit of info to be found (thousands of postings) about using pods and some discuss CV carbs. CV = "constant velocity" Ed

Here's one that may help explain.....

www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/59838...kz750-b1-1976#674519

I saw that video last night, wish it was a bit slower paced for folk like me. But my understanding is, if I raise the idle speed, that makes it draw off the main jet rather than the pilot, if it is set to anything above minimum?

Helpme wrote: Hello from Connecticut. I've been working on a 1979 KZ750B4 on and off for the past year and a half. When I got it, the previous owner had sunk a float(left side) and gotten frustrated with it. I bought the new float and needle valve, messed around with the float height a whole bunch, and got it to idle on the right cylinder(with the left cylinder occasionally firing). Not too long after that, the right float sunk. Replaced that one, and now the needle valve on that side isn't shutting off flow. Anyways when I try to start it, it won't pop, even with starting fluid. It used to be able to run on starting fluid.

Here's what's been done to the bike over the winter:
Went through both carbs, clearing every passage out. Cleaned out the tank, sealed it, and cleaned out the really worn petcock. New plugs, new points and condenser (both had gaps set according to the manual), new float bowl gaskets.

After all this, I'm worse off than when I got the bike. It won't pop at all now. Ithe appears to have a weaker spark now with the new points and condenser, not sure why. I'll post a link shortly of how the bike used to run.

Any help is greatly appreciated, it's been the most frustrating experience wasting so much time on this and working backwards when problems should be getting better.

Thanks,
John
(P.S. before you suggest putting it into a shop, I've wasted too much of my time on this to have someone fix it with the magic touch. I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong.)

Clear tube the fuel levels yet?

For valve seals: take the needles out and spin them in a drill and polish the tips.

I haven't found a way to try the clear tube method, as there is no overflow valve to open, there's just the screw in the bottom of the bowl, no way to stick a tube onto a female hole. The leak issue is no longer present. I am now overflowing gas anymore, and have an adequate enough supply of gas where the floats are set currently that the bike runs.