Carburetor Leak, Bike Won't Run

Hello from Connecticut. I've been working on a 1979 KZ750B4 on and off for the past year and a half. When I got it, the previous owner had sunk a float(left side) and gotten frustrated with it. I bought the new float and needle valve, messed around with the float height a whole bunch, and got it to idle on the right cylinder(with the left cylinder occasionally firing). Not too long after that, the right float sunk. Replaced that one, and now the needle valve on that side isn't shutting off flow. Anyways when I try to start it, it won't pop, even with starting fluid. It used to be able to run on starting fluid.

Here's what's been done to the bike over the winter:
Went through both carbs, clearing every passage out. Cleaned out the tank, sealed it, and cleaned out the really worn petcock. New plugs, new points and condenser (both had gaps set according to the manual), new float bowl gaskets.

After all this, I'm worse off than when I got the bike. It won't pop at all now. Ithe appears to have a weaker spark now with the new points and condenser, not sure why. I'll post a link shortly of how the bike used to run.

Any help is greatly appreciated, it's been the most frustrating experience wasting so much time on this and working backwards when problems should be getting better.

Thanks,
John
(P.S. before you suggest putting it into a shop, I've wasted too much of my time on this to have someone fix it with the magic touch. I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong.)

Here's the link. And I know it's not good for the bike.

Weak battery, bad coil, bad coil wires and bad caps can cause weak or no spark.

Have you solved the fuel problem? If they are still leaking, starting, even with starting fluid may not be possible.

Does the bike have the factory air box and exhaust?

Do you have a genuine Kawasaki Factory Service Manual? If not, you really should get one. Among other useful tidbits, it has some pretty good diagnostic procedures in it.

Bought the battery in August of 2014 when I bought the bike. As for the fuel problem, I will be attempting to seat the needle valve again shortly. The bike has some aftermarket exhaust, it does have some baffling. The factory airbox is destroyed, I've never tested with one. And the factory manual is the one I was using for the gaps.

No air box and open pipes, 2 year old battery and flooding carbs. Have you checked to see if the floats will float in water? Have you checked the valves? Without the air box and good exhaust, even if you do get it running, it won't run for crap.
Steve

Pipes are not open, just not stock. Better spark when on charger, so new battery needed. Is there any way to check the valves without taking off the top end? If it helps you guys any, with the spark plugs out there is no knocking or rattles when crankong, it turns over smoothly. Let's say I did pods temporarily instead of the filter, just to work on it. And provided the needle valve is remedied, the carbs should be in working order. Both floats actually float, they are tank sealed (a light coat). So then the issue is why are the carbs not drawing fuel?

Tank sealed? Are you using the clear tube test? Need to lower the floats a smidge. Pics?
Steve

Tank sealed floats as in the coating that you can put in the tank so it doesn't rust out. I will move that one float down a hair, as the needle valve is seated well, no light comes through when I check it. I will get some pictures of the sparks when I get out of work. Not sure how to do the clear tube test on this bike, any link for that? If you need any other pictures, please let me know.

I just recently tracked down a leaky carb and found out the overflow tube that is pressed into the float bowl had a crack in it.
The symptoms were the same as a float needle that won't seal, or mis adjusted floats.

Take leaking bowl off and cap the tube with your finger, then blow through the bowl drain hose and see if you hear a leak.
I ended up filling the bowl with water and blowing into the drain hose and found my leak.

This was after changing float levels and swapping float needles around etc....

I was able to solder up the tube and reinstall, leak fixed.

Just did that leak test, everything checks out. Here's the video to what I have for spark.


Also, the boots the carburetors fit into on the engine were both a bit wet.

While replacing the points did you happen to put the rotor back in 180 degrees off, happens all the time.

Didn't take it out, it all screws onto that plate.