This site is awesome! Dove into my GPz TK22 carbs.

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11 Feb 2016 14:12 #710495 by MadShad
So my new to me '81 GPz 550 had a carb that would leak while running and would leak until the bowl was empty when shut down.
After adjusting floats, cleaning and swapping float needles and seats around between the #3 and #4 carbs,I finially realized that the problem was the overflow tube inside of the float bowl.
The tube had a hair line crack about halfway down, a little solder fixed it right up.

While I was in there I checked my jets and found that they were #92 instead of #94, long story short I ended up drilling out using info that loudhvx had proivided on his website.

Having that info was clutch, thanks so much!
I love my new machine and the site has been great!

I'm waiting on some touch up paint to dry and then I get to attempt to reinstall the carbs.
Should be a royal pain, I'm open to suggestions

Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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  • 10 22 2014
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11 Feb 2016 15:55 #710511 by SWest

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11 Feb 2016 16:07 #710515 by loudhvx
Heat is your friend. If its cool in the garage, a blow dryer helps warm up the rubber.

Make sure all of the air box mounts are loose and the box is slid all the way back. Make sure the manifold clamps are excessively loosened beyond reason. This lets the rubber stretch in non-round shapes which is what needs to happen. Slide the rack in from the left, so the carbs are below the rubbers (sometimes it works ok from above as well, you may have a preference one way or the other). Then while sitting on the bike seat, put your feet on the ignition casting, and alternator housing. Then grab the carbs from the bodies of the 1 and 4 carbs. In one motion (but slow), you will pull back on the carbs and force them into the airbox boots, and then just nose up the front of the carbs into the intake manifolds. You want the carb outlets to hook under the top lip of the intake rubbers so you can distort them slightly upwards until the bottoms just barely pop in. Then slide the carbs forward. It will be like rowing a boat through wet cement. I use a bit of rubber-safe lube on the carb outlets to make them slide in better without folding the manifold lips.

If it doesn't work in one slow move, take a break. It's all about pulling into the airbox hard enough. With practice it gets easy, but I hope you don't have any herniated disks. Your chiropractor will hate you. :)
The following user(s) said Thank You: MadShad

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11 Feb 2016 18:51 #710540 by MadShad
They are back in the bike, everything is where it belongs...
I ended up propping my heat gun into the airbox (lid off, filter removed) and turning it on low and let it heat up for awhile.
With the airbox boots nice and warm It made it easier to get everything sealed up, without heat I doubt I would have ever got it installed.

I found a balance port cap that was split and a bolt was very loose one the #4 intake manifold boot, so hopefully I've solved a couple air leak problems I didn't know I had. All in all it was worth the aggravation.

Bike fired right up, had to adjust the idle speed down (air leaks fixed), I let it warm up a bit and no leaks from the carbs, love it.

Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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11 Feb 2016 19:04 #710541 by rrsmsw9999
Double up on Lou's 550 info,it's the best out there. And man that 550 carb boot box setup is a bitch. The 650 was a pierce of cake in comparison, If ever there was a case for pods that is it. I am considering as the stock pipes I have are a bit rusted with a few holes. Will see how the rebuild goes first. R

1980 KZ 1000E2
Crashed 6/2016

1980 KZ550A
Sold 3/2016

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18 Feb 2016 07:16 #711270 by jdvorchak

rrsmsw9999 wrote: Double up on Lou's 550 info,it's the best out there. And man that 550 carb boot box setup is a bitch. The 650 was a pierce of cake in comparison, If ever there was a case for pods that is it. I am considering as the stock pipes I have are a bit rusted with a few holes. Will see how the rebuild goes first. R


Now after hours of fighting those air box boots back on I see this. I was putting the carbs into the cylinder boots first then trying to attach the air box boots onto the installed carbs. What a PIA that is.

Don't fix it until it's broken.
John

83 KZ550M1
83 KZ1100LTD

Also own:
2010 Harley Ultra Classic Limited, 2008 Harley low rider 71 CB350/sidecar

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18 Feb 2016 13:41 #711334 by rrsmsw9999
Yep, even with new boots it sucks. With soft air box boots I found that I just smash 'em close and then I use an awl to get the outer box boots on the carbs, Also fully loosening the manifold clamps and some WD 40 on em helps inserting the carb mouths. It's a double suck job. :S

R

1980 KZ 1000E2
Crashed 6/2016

1980 KZ550A
Sold 3/2016

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