RS36 conversion from BS34's

  • daveo
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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 09:17
#707626
I see...
So there is no practical way of draining the fuel without it spilling all-over the top of the motor, and then one must have some gizmo setup to check the float level with a clear tube? :unsure:

Please correct me if I'm full of gas. :blink:
1982 KZ1100-A2

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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 09:41
#707632
I catch the gas in a container. Most bikes don't have the luxury of a drain screw and nipple.
Steve
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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 10:59 - 22 Jan 2016 10:59
#707639
swest wrote: I catch the gas in a container. Most bikes don't have the luxury of a drain screw and nipple.
Steve

...luxuries standard on the BS34's :huh:
So nobody has come up with a new threaded plug with a nipple? Dang nipples anyway... :pinch:
1982 KZ1100-A2

Last edit: 22 Jan 2016 10:59 by daveo. Reason: oops.

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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 13:03
#707660
1982 KZ1100-A2

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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 16:16
#707681
Yellow, bowl vents, red, balance tubes, blue, vacuum ports
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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 16:19
#707682
Baldy beat me to it.
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 16:35
#707683
swest wrote: I gave up on pods 30 years ago. I was complaining to miller that my bike seemed to be running out of fuel at high speeds. He told me the air is passing so fast, it creates a vortex behind your legs and starves the carbs of air. I put a KZ 900 air box on and the problem went away.
Steve

I got away from that problem when I got rid of the pods and put on a Henry Abe bread box. It worked much better than the pods because I covered up the ends of the bread box so it only pulled air from the top and bottom.
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project

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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 16:42
#707684
daveo wrote:
swest wrote: I catch the gas in a container. Most bikes don't have the luxury of a drain screw and nipple.
Steve

...luxuries standard on the BS34's :huh:
So nobody has come up with a new threaded plug with a nipple? Dang nipples anyway... :pinch:

These are set by float height, I will take a cap of and see if I can figure out the thread size. I am sure it is metric so I'm betting you would have to buy a spare and put a nipple in it to use it for clear tube method.
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 16:48
#707685
Yes Jon, please measure it and I'll check it against mine. I've seen loose ones for sale and I have four non working mini mag lights.
Steve

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Re: RS36/RS34 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 16:55 - 22 Jan 2016 17:21
#707686
baldy110 wrote: Yellow, bowl vents, red, balance tubes, blue, vacuum ports
There is no apparent provision for utilizing the clear tube method for measuring the fuel height in the bowls.
Let me guess...clear tube is connected to one balance tube nipple while the other is plugged on each bowl, while the carb rack is mounted to a level support on a bench. :whistle:

We are all aware that the clear-tube method is preferred to all others to accurately establish fuel height, so let's hear it guys...how do you who have these carbs deal with what seems to be a mystery here? :whistle:
1982 KZ1100-A2

Last edit: 22 Jan 2016 17:21 by daveo. Reason: Revision to Subject text

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Re: RS36 conversion from BS34's

22 Jan 2016 18:05
#707691
531blackbanshee wrote:
daveo wrote: OK, considering I get a set of RS34's instead... :whistle:

...what changes will be necessary to install and make a set of (good as new) RS34 flat slide carburetors work exceedingly-better than the BS34's that have been on the the bike forever?
a little port work,a set of cams,the right valve springs,a good header.

then you you need enough jets(mains and pilots) to get the carbs dialed in( few sets above and below whatevers in it) .

some 34's could be dialed in on a 900 also,with the mods i listed to take advantage of the bigger size.

but they are gonna take some fiddling and most folks wont spend the time or money on the jets and spark plugs to get them dialed in right.
so they won't be happy and they will tell everyone they put big carbs on and they just can't get it to run right.

carbs mix fuel and air proportionately to the amount of air the throat can pass.
so if you get the air fuel mixture correct too small a carb or too big a carb can be tuned to work .
too small a carb is going to limit the maximum power you can make.
too big a carb is going to be hard to get dialed in to pull clean from the closed to open throttle,but will scream on top.
considering the intake size of 36mm and then restriction of the port and seat,valve stem guide boss area i would guess somewhere between 28 and 32 mm to be an ideal size.
but i'm a fan of a bit of over carburation and squeezing all the compression you can out of it to help the bottom end.
if you don't mind spending some time and money on dyno sessions you can get em dialed in,or countless plug chops on a road by your house.
thats my.02,

fwiw

leon
Given enough time/patience /fine tuning/compression/rpm and camshaft Im sure that you can make a holley 1150 dominator work good on a 283 chevy also.
As long as you dont mind 5.13 gears and spinning 8,000 rpms at 45mph. :woohoo:
Still recovering,some days are better than others.

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Re: RS36/RS34 conversion from BS34's

24 Jan 2016 07:37
#707861
daveo wrote:
baldy110 wrote: Yellow, bowl vents, red, balance tubes, blue, vacuum ports
There is no apparent provision for utilizing the clear tube method for measuring the fuel height in the bowls.
Let me guess...clear tube is connected to one balance tube nipple while the other is plugged on each bowl, while the carb rack is mounted to a level support on a bench. :whistle:

We are all aware that the clear-tube method is preferred to all others to accurately establish fuel height, so let's hear it guys...how do you who have these carbs deal with what seems to be a mystery here? :whistle:

:unsure:
1982 KZ1100-A2

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