28mm Mikunis Better Than 29mm Smoothbores?

No way are they worth 650.00, or are 29s worth 600.00 - 800.00 that people pay for
why spend that kind of money on a set of 40+ yr..old carbs that are hard to find parts for, when you can buy a brand spankin knew set of RS 34s for around 600.00, & they'll out perform both the 28s or the 29s, that's just my opinion
Pete

pete greek1 wrote: No way are they worth 650.00, or are 29s worth 600.00 - 800.00 that people pay for
why spend that kind of money on a set of 40+ yr..old carbs that are hard to find parts for, when you can buy a brand spankin knew set of RS 34s for around 600.00, & they'll out perform both the 28s or the 29s, that's just my opinion
Pete

That was my thinking too, if you are going to spend that kind of money and are looking for performance there has to be something new available. I couldn't believe those 28's were going for as high as $350 on ebay when I got my 1000 back in October of last year.

Many sellers of old Kaw parts have this "novelty price" engrained in their way of thinking and therefore claim top dollar for any old Kaw parts even in mediocre condition. Same is true for the Z1-900 era vm28ss Mikuni's. Try finding the earliest Z1-900 carbs the vm28'sc' Mikuni's and see how THEY would fetch! ...............................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

Rockranch wrote: Many sellers of old Kaw parts have this "novelty price" engrained in their way of thinking and therefore claim top dollar for any old Kaw parts even in mediocre condition. Same is true for the Z1-900 era vm28ss Mikuni's. Try finding the earliest Z1-900 carbs the vm28'sc' Mikuni's and see how THEY would fetch! ...............................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

Thankfully many haven't realized how many KZ650 parts fit the big Kawasaki's you can save a lot by buying the same part listed for a KZ650. Many seem to think anything from a Z1 or KZ1000 is automatically as valuable as gold and as rare as hen's teeth.

redhawk4 wrote:

Rockranch wrote: Many sellers of old Kaw parts have this "novelty price" engrained in their way of thinking and therefore claim top dollar for any old Kaw parts even in mediocre condition. Same is true for the Z1-900 era vm28ss Mikuni's. Try finding the earliest Z1-900 carbs the vm28'sc' Mikuni's and see how THEY would fetch! ...............................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

Thankfully many haven't realized how many KZ650 parts fit the big Kawasaki's you can save a lot by buying the same part listed for a KZ650. Many seem to think anything from a Z1 or KZ1000 is automatically as valuable as gold and as rare as hen's teeth.

Very true, things like carbs, forks, rims, calipers rotors, etc. etc.
Pete

Mikuni made another mistake with their 29mm smoothbores. Remember the smoothbore insert that supposedly allowed more air to flow through the carb, than the OEM 26mm carbs Quote from experts

Google experts? Thought Sudco made 29s :blink:
Dave

28's are fine. 29's are better, but it's better antiquated tech, and not really worth it IMO

If I'm spending $600+ for fuel delivery it's much better spent on fuel injection with a timing controller and wideband tuning capabilities.

pete greek1 wrote:

redhawk4 wrote:

Rockranch wrote: Many sellers of old Kaw parts have this "novelty price" engrained in their way of thinking and therefore claim top dollar for any old Kaw parts even in mediocre condition. Same is true for the Z1-900 era vm28ss Mikuni's. Try finding the earliest Z1-900 carbs the vm28'sc' Mikuni's and see how THEY would fetch! ...............................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

Thankfully many haven't realized how many KZ650 parts fit the big Kawasaki's you can save a lot by buying the same part listed for a KZ650. Many seem to think anything from a Z1 or KZ1000 is automatically as valuable as gold and as rare as hen's teeth.

Very true, things like carbs, forks, rims, calipers rotors, etc. etc.
Pete

Lights, signals, hb switches, electrical components.........The list goes on and on and on LOL!. Back to the subject at hand tho'...LTD and flo are both on the money..........................Mike

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Started out new in 78 with 26mm on my LTD My LTD would out pull down low my best friends 78 Z1R with 28mm stock carbs then he would start pulling on me and win everytime... 1/4 mile runs
I went to 29mm SB carbs and now could beat him every time. These 2 bikes repeated these races at least 1000 times
Then he added a Winning Header and he was now dead even every time.
I then added a Yoshimura pipe to my bike and was again the winner every time
Both to this point had stock motors. so carbs and pipes were only variables.
Hope this helps
Dave

That is awesome info right there! Real world test results....thanks for sharing.

pete greek1 wrote: No way are they worth 650.00, or are 29s worth 600.00 - 800.00 that people pay for
why spend that kind of money on a set of 40+ yr..old carbs that are hard to find parts for, when you can buy a brand spankin knew set of RS 34s for around 600.00, & they'll out perform both the 28s or the 29s, that's just my opinion
Pete

this was kind of what i was asking in another post a few weeks ago.. since i have no experience with the RS34s i was wondering if they were
a better way to go. Just out of curiosity. what can I expect if i bought a set of these for my 1000 shaft? it has the 28 pumper now
better performance, easier to tune, better fuel mileage ? money wasted ?

Carb performance descrepancies: A riding buddy one time switched (his KZ1000) to a set of 29 sb's. He tried and tried as instructed by a reputable local Kaw mechanic and couldn't quite get them to run 'right'. I asked him if he was sure they were completely sealed at the manifold boots. He said he was sure they were and that the clamps were as snug as he cld get 'em. I recommended he try the ether test just to make sure. He never heard of that before. So I got my can of starting fluid (aka ether) and gave each of his carb manifold boots a very short *pfft* of ether with his engine idling. Low 'n' behold 2 of his carbs had a slight (but noticeable) rise in rpm resulting from the very short *pfft* of ether applied to each end of each manifold boot. One boot's leak was at the carb end of the boot, the other leak was at the boot/head seal. Very slight leaks they were, but leaks none-the-less and even only at idle speed. With throttle applied it wld make sense for the vaccuum differences to be amplified. He took an afternoon and remounted his carbs and manifold boots and his carb performance had a noticeable improvement. He was amazed. A quick and easy *and very inexpensive* test for anyone to verify the integrity of their intake seals no matter what a bikes age or size, and not everyone thinks of...especially if you change carbs at some point. The smallest of air leaks between the carbs and head can be detected instantaneously using this method. Food for thought........................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

strum wrote:

pete greek1 wrote: No way are they worth 650.00, or are 29s worth 600.00 - 800.00 that people pay for
why spend that kind of money on a set of 40+ yr..old carbs that are hard to find parts for, when you can buy a brand spankin knew set of RS 34s for around 600.00, & they'll out perform both the 28s or the 29s, that's just my opinion
Pete

this was kind of what i was asking in another post a few weeks ago.. since i have no experience with the RS34s i was wondering if they were
a better way to go. Just out of curiosity. what can I expect if i bought a set of these for my 1000 shaft? it has the 28 pumper now
better performance, easier to tune, better fuel mileage ? money wasted ?

I don't think RS 34s would work well on a stock motor, & non ported head, IMO, bigger is not always better
Pete