Rpms jump around

Good start. CV carbs. Do the thumb test on them. Look in my signature for the thread will it live.
Steve

Do you know for certain that the engine ran properly after the individual filters were installed? If not, the problem could be a combination of dried out intake manifolds, improper jetting, incorrect fuel levels, jacked up adjustments, et cetera.

If you know beyond a shadow of a doubt that it did run properly after their installaton, you may be able to scratch jetting of the list.

Yup
Steve

I don't know the history of the bike. It wasn't running when I got it. The bike runs now except for the random rpm spikes.

If the thumb test involves removing the filters then covering the upper hole and watching to see if the slides move down slowly, then I've did that.

I like the brake cleaner idea. I'll be trying that out tomorrow for sure. Thank you for the help. I'm dying to ride this beast but it's going to be hard to learn when it has a mind of it's own. Hopefully I'll get it on the road soon.

I read your sugested thread swest, nice bikes and I enjoyed the narrative.

Trying to diagnose running problems on a bike with out of date maintenance is an exercise in futility.

First thing I'd do is pull off the carbs and go through them. You have to remove the choke butterflies on the most outboard carbs before you will be able to fully separate the carbs. Take the carbs fully apart, including removing the pilot screw and pilot jets, and soak all parts in carb dip. It's critical that you hold the pilot jets up to the light and make sure the small orifice is open. After everything is clean and you verify all the various jets and passages are open then reassemble with all new O-rings. Z1 Enterprises sells them. Also take an inventory of the jet numbers and compare to stock. Getting the bike to run right after installing pods is a lot more involved than just bumping the main jet a couple steps like many guys do. A Dynojet kit is highly recommended because they give you the jets you need and new needles, which will improve partial throttle responsiveness.

Another thing, the 750-4 model bikes didn't have points. It seems that someone retrofitted your bike with points from an early 650, or maybe there is a 650 engine installed. Most 750's were black other than the cruiser models. You may want to verify if you have the correct engine installed. There is nothing wrong with the 650 per say, it's just that the jetting requirements will be different from the 750.

Good luck

The bike has the 750 engine but was retrofitted with the points from an older bike. I'm going to have to disassemble the carbs soon anyway because the fuel inlet tee fitting is cracked and needs to be replaced. I have one on order. I guess I should order an o-ring kit while I'm at it to be on the safe side.

The Tee itself is most likely fine. It's the O-rings on the end of the Tee that need replacing.

You need the following O-rings:
6 for the fuel transfer tubes and the Tee.
4 for the pilot screws
4 for the float bowls
4 for the float bowl drain screws

I'm going to order a few parts and I'll give an update after I go through the carbs.

I just wanted to update the thread. I finally had the time to get back to working on my bike. I was able to resolve the rpm issue thanks to the info from the fine users on this forum. The culprit was the carb intake/mounting boots. After ordering a used set off ebay which turned out to be bad, I ordered a new set. The problem was gone. Thanks for the help.