leaky boots all around

  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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30 Aug 2015 11:23 #687852 by SWest
Replied by SWest on topic leaky boots all around
Hand impact driver to remove these screws if they've been in there for long. Get the 3/8" so you can use it for sockets and Allen sockets. A must for any tool box.
Steve

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30 Aug 2015 11:26 #687853 by 82KZ305Belt
Replied by 82KZ305Belt on topic leaky boots all around
Is 33 years "long"? :lol:

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  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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30 Aug 2015 11:29 #687854 by SWest

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05 Sep 2015 07:39 #688728 by 82KZ305Belt
Replied by 82KZ305Belt on topic leaky boots all around
I'm happy to report that a few days of Liquid Wrench and the above mentioned snub-nosed bit in a 1/4 inch drive ratchet pulled those puppies out easy as butter. The one boot took minor effort to dislodge while the other one just fell off when I took the screws out. Oh yeah-it was time for new ones!

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05 Sep 2015 13:42 #688773 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic leaky boots all around
Excellent! It takes a bit of patience to let the screws soak, but it is well worth the wait! Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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05 Sep 2015 14:14 - 05 Sep 2015 14:17 #688777 by KZB2 650
Replied by KZB2 650 on topic leaky boots all around

missionkz wrote: If you are not a purist, replace all those awful JIS screws with Allen head screws and use stainless steel ones at that.


One of the first things I did on my 650 and way back in 73 on my dare I say it Honda 750. :laugh: You can use your inch Lb torque wrench too this way if you want to really get fancy.

I found out the Master Mechanic #3 and #2 bits fit like they were modified too....... perfect fit on the JIS screws...... and my Sears impact has saved me a few times.


Ed what do you think about blue lock tightin them in too ..... if I read it right my factory manual recommends this and I always have ..... Also Yoshi's #1 mechanic (at the time) recommended this to me in a hand written letter many years ago when I asked them about what manifolds I needed and jetting for the 29mm smoothbores to fit. (Not being a smart azz.... I know we got in a pretty ggod argument over something close to this years ago and I'm not .)

1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
Last edit: 05 Sep 2015 14:17 by KZB2 650.

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06 Sep 2015 10:50 - 06 Sep 2015 10:50 #688875 by 82KZ305Belt
Replied by 82KZ305Belt on topic leaky boots all around
yep, that's the secret to any penetrating oil. Even PB Blaster works if it sits long enough. I thought penetrating oils were pretty useless until I figured out they work best over days not minutes or hours.

650ed wrote: Excellent! It takes a bit of patience to let the screws soak, but it is well worth the wait! Ed

Last edit: 06 Sep 2015 10:50 by 82KZ305Belt.

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06 Sep 2015 14:12 #688897 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic leaky boots all around

KZB2 650 wrote:

Ed what do you think about blue lock tightin them in too ..... if I read it right my factory manual recommends this and I always have ..... Also Yoshi's #1 mechanic (at the time) recommended this to me in a hand written letter many years ago when I asked them about what manifolds I needed and jetting for the 29mm smoothbores to fit. (Not being a smart azz.... I know we got in a pretty ggod argument over something close to this years ago and I'm not .)


Yes. The Kawasaki Service Manual calls for a non-permanent locking agent on the carb holders screws. Blue loctite is perfect for the job. That's exactly what I used when I replaced mine. Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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