80 KZ750 Leaking Fuel Tee

Looks like JB weld. :sick:
Steve

That's what I was thinkin ....... cracked, melted and or JB welded...... maybe new o rings ( with a dab of grease like Steve said) and a new old Tee ?

JB Weld is light gray colored, that sealer crap looks black. Most likely someone slathered sealer on the T in an attempt to stop a leak instead of fixing the carbs properly by taking them apart and replacing the O-rings.

Those Keihin carbs are a pain to service because of the choke plates. Mikuni CV's are much easier to deal with. Regardless, the only way to do a proper rebuild is to break down the carbs fully. Short cuts are long cuts when it comes to carbs.

It took me about 15 mins to replace them on mine (same carbs). They're more intimidating "looking" to pull apart then they really are.... All the linkage stays with each carb, one nut on the choke lever and the 2 rails, and apart they come.... Just take a lot of pics of how the sync adjust nuts and plates are situated, also a metric o ring kit from autozone is way cheaper then the 9$ asking price of the actual o rings, and sealed mine fine.... (You guys know I normally buy genuine kawa but 70$ for 6 orings shipped seemed insane....

A friend of mine helped me locate the problem tonight. We vacuum tested each carb and found that the float needle seat on carb no. 3 if you're looking at the racked carbs from the intake side is leaking air. Does anyone know how to remove the seat? I tried using a pair of vice grips but was unable to take it loose. FYI. We tested this carb by pushing the narrow tip of the vacuum tester into the seat and pumping the vacuum. The pressure did not hold.

Thanks for the info on those o rings.

Randombeat wrote: It took me about 15 mins to replace them on mine (same carbs). They're more intimidating "looking" to pull apart then they really are.... All the linkage stays with each carb, one nut on the choke lever and the 2 rails, and apart they come.... Just take a lot of pics of how the sync adjust nuts and plates are situated, also a metric o ring kit from autozone is way cheaper then the 9$ asking price of the actual o rings, and sealed mine fine.... (You guys know I normally buy genuine kawa but 70$ for 6 orings shipped seemed insane....

That seems insane to me too, but why so much money?? The "T" uses 2 o-rings and they cost less than $2 each. Ed

www.partzilla.com/search/?q=92055-1004&x=19&y=15

A friend of mine helped me locate the problem tonight. We vacuum tested each carb and found that the float needle seat on carb no. 3 if you're looking at the racked carbs from the intake side is leaking air. Does anyone know how to remove the seat? I tried using a pair of vice grips but was unable to take it loose. FYI. We tested this carb by pushing the narrow tip of the vacuum tester into the seat and pumping the vacuum. The pressure did not hold.

Those seats are pressed in and are not removable. They can be cleaned up using Brasso on a Q tip and rinse off with carb cleaner or gas or similar. Leaking at the seat could also be due to the tip of the float needle being worn
Good luck

The float needles are brand new. The seat isn't holding any pressure. Doesn't seem like cleaning would help that. Am I wrong?

Others in the past have had good luck with brasso cleaner, half a qtip and a low speed drill....

Also, are you sure float is in correct, needle is in correct direction, ect ect? Stranger things have happened then a float being upside down.... (No offense)

Pics of new needle, and the installed float/needle if possible?

650ed wrote:

Randombeat wrote: It took me about 15 mins to replace them on mine (same carbs). They're more intimidating "looking" to pull apart then they really are.... All the linkage stays with each carb, one nut on the choke lever and the 2 rails, and apart they come.... Just take a lot of pics of how the sync adjust nuts and plates are situated, also a metric o ring kit from autozone is way cheaper then the 9$ asking price of the actual o rings, and sealed mine fine.... (You guys know I normally buy genuine kawa but 70$ for 6 orings shipped seemed insane....

That seems insane to me too, but why so much money?? The "T" uses 2 o-rings and they cost less than $2 each. Ed

www.partzilla.com/search/?q=92055-1004&x=19&y=15

I replaced all 6 in the rack, but I had a different part no for some reason... And was checking fleabay like a dummy....