No more carb sync screw adjustment.

I am banging my head against a wall here. I have never had this problem with a sync before.

TK22 carbs.

2 of my sync adjustment screws are screwed too far "up" so the lock nut bottoms out without locking the set screw in place.

I found a couple similar threads about this but I am still unsure how to fix this.

Is there a way to resolve this without removing the carbs from the bike?


Edit I have tried to lower the idle screw and then turn in the adjustment screws to give me thread to tighten the locknut but the engine dies too quickly at a very low rpm to make any adjustments.

I have also tried to turn in the adjustment screws an equal amount with the engine off and then try to sync but the vacuum is too high and the engine sucks in the fluid in my meter (then I have to stop and get the air out of the meter)

I am about to stack a couple of washers under the locknuts but I know that is not the proper solution.

I think the question you should be asking is why your cylinder vacuum is so widely varied that you've exceeded the available adjustment range on the carbs. Have you done a compression test?

If you read the manual that came with your manometer, I'm sure you'll see that it says not to even bother attempting to sync the carbs until any compression and valve clearance, fuel supply, and air leak issues have been resolved. It's meant to be a very fine adjustment.

Yup. Some guys just don't want to adjust the valves then wonder why it won't run.
Steve

I wasn't trying to offend anyone.

Valves were adjusted 2000 miles ago.

I had to remove the throttle slide adjust screws to repair a bent linkage from the throttle shaft to the slide itself.

The cylinder vacuum does not very much and I can get each very close to each other. I disturbed the relationship between the slide adjustment screws and the master idle speed adjust thumbscrew. I have an airbox so it is a pain to remove the carbs to reset this relationship.

All of that can be done from the top of the carbs without removing them from the bike. The only thing that needs to come off to get access is the tank. Just use a depth gauge to physically measure the distance from the top of the carb to the top of the slide. If you are out of adjustable range on one carb, adjust all of them to get the one into range, counting turns. Then make all four measurements the same as a starting point. (All with the motor not running.)
Then start the bike and adjust idle knob accordingly, and once you regain adjustable range across the rack, you start over on the sync.

If you are saying one carb is maxed out one way and another is maxed in the other direction, then you have a serious vacuum leak somewhere, or a pretty significant engine condition issue.

The sync adjustments control the slide through a spring-loaded pinch joint on the linkage. If something is messed up with the that, it may require an out -of-range setting.

If the cylinder registering lower vacuum has the slide at a lower position (through measuring slide position), then it probably has a vacuum leak.

If they're close together, what's the problem? Maybe set them back lower the adjustment and start over.
Steve

I think the throttle linkage pinch joint springs are worn out. I bought some M4 nuts to shove in there as a spacer but they were a tad too big.

I managed to get them reasonably close. I am going to invest in a Morgan Carbtune before I do another sync. I spent too much time getting bubbles out of my homemade tool.

The springs generally don't wear out.
Old saying, "The man with the tools gets the job."
Steve

Be careful not to lose the spring loaded parts if you take the linkage apart.