At my wit's end with these damn carbs. 95 gpz1100

So my boss gave me this bike after it had been sitting for about a year with what I presume was water and/or ethanol in the carbs. The water corroded all of the brass parts in the bowls, i.e. the jets and the needle valve seats. I replaced the jets with brand new ones ($). I got 4 K&N rebuild kits to replace the bowl gasket/orings and float needles($$). I found out the hard way that k&N rebuilt kits are shit, so I bought 4 new OEM carb bowl orings and 4 new OEM float needles ($$$).

Now here's where I'm at: I cannot for the life of me get the float valves to do their job. The valve seats in these damn carbs are pressed into the carb bodies and replacements are completely unavailable. I have tried cleaning up the seats with both brass polish and valve lapping compound; the sealing surfaces look really shiny now but they still don't seal right. I am sick of dicking around with these carbs, smelling like gas, and I'm sick of having an enormous paperweight taking up space in my garage.

Does anyone have any other tricks to clean up the damn valve seats before I go nuclear and order a custom countersink and go to town?

Oh and nobody's selling any on ebay (been checking all summer) so I basically only have one shot at reviving this bike.

Thanks in advance for any/all advice.

Have you tried jetrsrus for the valve seats?

www.jetsrus.com/index.html

Yeah I tried jetsrus. I also spoke to a kawasaki parts guy (off the clock) who did some research and said that there are basically no options as far as replacing the seats goes, unless I want to turn new ones myself.

I sent the hammered carbs on the 95 GPz I bought several years ago to Ivan in New York. In a week, he had them back to me l, bolted them on and adjusted the idle mixture 1/4 turn and they were spot on.

Cool do you have any contact info for Ivan in New York? Maybe PM me?

I had a leaky seat and I tried polishing. No good. Then I took a pencil, whittled so it would fit inside the seat cavity, used fine valve lapping compound and lapped the seat. It worked and it still does 4 months later. I also took the needle, put it in a short piece of tubing, used mt screw gun and turned the face against a flat piece of wood and #600 wet/dry paper. The groove went away and it looked good. You might try that.
Steve

Alright I'm gonna give it one more go with hardwood golf tees and some valve lapping compound, and then finish with brass polish.

HeavyBurtation wrote: Cool do you have any contact info for Ivan in New York? Maybe PM me?

www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/

HeavyBurtation wrote: Alright I'm gonna give it one more go with hardwood golf tees and some valve lapping compound, and then finish with brass polish.

Another thing. Be sure the adjusting tangs are level. They shouldn't be on a angle. That way they will cock the needle to one side and cause leaking. Bend the float arms just enough to bring in to adjustment range. The tangs are for fine adjustment ONLY.
Steve