1995 KZ 1000 won't start

You know, I am going to name this bike “Super Mother Load” because that’s what I have dealt with, a super mother load of problems. I know that issues with starting are all over this forum and I have searched and searched for issues. This is what I have done:

Since last time I posted, I had issues with the timing. I installed new Dyna S green coils and the Dyna S ignition. I static timed it (which was pretty easy on the Dyna S) and double tapped to make sure all of the spark plugs had spark. I fully charged the battery and measured across the terminals and measuring around 12 volts.

I also pulled the carbs (again) and pulled all the jets and the diaphragms and soaked the carb bank in a pine sol solution for a few days. I was VERY amazed by how much cleaner the carbs came out. I took carb cleaner and sprayed all the ports and holes where the main jet and pilot jet go to make sure they were clear, spray and cleaned out where the fuel enters the carb bank, no obstructions. Made sure the main and pilot jet were clear. I put a small wire strand to make sure the jets were clear. I since put them back together (with stock air box but filter removed) and I am STILL not getting the bike to run. It even seems like the plugs are dry. Doesn’t matter if I twist the throttle, pull the choke all the way out, set the idling screw at 1 ¼ to 1 ½ and I still don’t get anything. I loosen the float bowl drain plug and they definitely flow with gas. All the vacuum ports on the carb is plugged as I have a gravity fed petcock.

I don’t have a way to check compression (no gauge) but what I did do was remove the plugs and put my thumb over the spark plug hole and when I kicked the bike over, it definitely pushed my thumb off. I did this for all four cylinders. Now I know this isn’t an exact form of measurement but at least I should have enough compression for combustion? I haven’t checked the valves as I figure if it feels like I have compression, no need to check the valves (at least until I get it running).
Am I missing something stupid here? Clutch safety switched is bypassed, starting it in neutral, got gas…. Not sure where to go from here.

Mine is a 96. It ran but badly. I ended up replacing everything. I know that's not what you want to hear but yours is 20 years old and heavily abused like mine. Wuddayadew...

Some possibilities-
Is the kill switch in the "RUN' position?

"around 12 volts" may not be enough. More than 12 are needed.

Are the spark plug wires correctly hooked up? One coil fires cylinders 1 & 4, the other fires 2 & 3. They could be reversed.

How did you test for spark?

Put the air filter in.

Could the intake manifolds be leaking air?

When cold, the enrichener (it is not really a choke) needs to be pulled all the way out and the throttle should stay closed (don't be touching it)

Perhaps sacrificing a goat would help. At least you'd have barbecue when done.......

HBKwaka, if I could afford to replace everything or have it rebuilt, I would love to. I have wrenched on bikes before and have always been able to get them at LEAST running but this one has proven quite the adversary.

TexasKZ. The kill switch is in the RUN position. I even checked it by putting it in the STOP position and it doesn’t even turn over so I trust I am good here.

After I put it on the charger and the charger says it’s done, it reads 12 volts. What should it be? I bought the battery new about 5-6 months ago.

As for the plug wire order, this is correct, I made sure it is not swapped.

I tested the plug by pulling it, attaching the plug wire to it and grounding it to the frame.

As for the enricher, I have tried pulling it out, not touching throttle and still no change.

I’ll look into an air filter and yes I know I need one but would this really keep it from starting? Even if it ran like crap?

I live on a military installation and I don’t know if sacrificing a goat would work (there are none) but a wild boar though……

I appreciate your help! 

FYI-The Exchange has World of Powersports as a supplier. You can get all the parts (OEM)with a 15% discount using your Star card to boot. Thats how i did it...(Retired USN)

I had the same problem , at the end all it was that prevented my engine from starting, was the clamps on my intake manifold boots were not tightening properly, therefore no gas was being sucked jn for the combustion to occur. Check your boots for cracks, leaks and make sure clamps are on tight, do a clear tube test to set floats. Hope this helps.

The intake rubber boots are brand new. The airbox rubber boots are even zip tied to the carb to double insure they are tight. I guess what I could try is to spray quick start around the carbs to see if that gives a start. I would just be happy to narrow the problem down

Spray some starting fluid in each carb. If it doesn't try to start, it's electrical.
Steve

nlwatkin wrote: ... plugs are dry....

If not already being done while cleaning the carb pilot circuit, would assure that spray cleaner is exiting from the pilot circuit through the orifices into the carb bore.

Where applicable, the small passageway must be as-new clean and clear where gasoline supplies the pilot circuit.

If fuel mixture is entering the carb bore, the spark plugs would likely not be dry.



Good Fortune!